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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #1 
So tickets please and we are off.

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Looking at the kit it is showing its age as there is loads of flash but the other thing that sticks out is the amount of injector pin marks.  This has got to be the most I have seen in one kit and I have do a few Airfix kits in my time.

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So out came my Dremel to sand off the pin marks and the panel lines as I want a smooth finish.  I kept the Dremel at low rev's and I also kept it moving on the plastic as to not melt it but using this has saved a fair bit of time.

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The wooden window covers that come with the kit are made from cardboard and to me look a touch flat so I am going to replace them with plastic ones.  Also I am hoping that the extra plastic will help to add a bit more strength and take out any warping on the side pieces.  Using the kits covers as templates I cut the new ones from Evergreen V-Groove styrene sheet 1mm thick with 4.8mm spacing.

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Then using the kit covers again as a guide I marked the plastic and cut the vertical lines in the new covers using a Tamiya "P" cutter.

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To add texture to the new covers I cut into them again with the "P" cutter.

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Using the kits covers yet again as a guide I glued the new covers in place.

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The kit covers are not printed on the back, they are just white and smooth.  The "V" Groove is the same with the groove only on one side but because you will be able to see in the main bus cabin I decided to add texture on the inside as well.

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All I did was to hold the windows up to the light which enabled me to see the groove on the other and mark them with a pencil.

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Then using a rule and the "P" cutter I cut the new lines and added a touch more texture.

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For the upper windows frames I just took the measurements off the kit covers and cut the from the "V" groove sheet.  I cut the planks individually to help remove some uniformity.  Then I glued them to the windows.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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ddoc666

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Reply with quote  #2 
Interesting subject!
Great work enhancing the window covers!

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #3 
Ian, I LOVE to watch you take over a kit and create really nice details using all the tricks and techniques, and you ALWAYS share what you do---what a great friend to this Hobby and the rest of us specifically. subscribed.
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks Ted and here is the latest update.  With all the windows covers attached I glued three sides to the base and here is what they look like.

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As you can see from the photo above there is a poster board and I thought it would be a shame to waste it.  So I looked on the internet for some World War One posters and using photoshop, Word and a colour laser printer this is what I came up with.

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I measured the poster board and then using photoshop I just resized the image and saved it.  Then I opened a new document in Word and just inserted the images.  I did a few because I thought it would be a waste of paper to print three small images on an A4 sheet of paper and the extras would always come in handy.  The one I was going to used inside would be Lord Kitchener the main reason being it is going to be dark in the back and it was the brightest.  So I use a craft knife and steel rule to cut him out.

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Here he is just to see if I got the measurements right.

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Here is the remaining side and roof as I wanted just check the fit.

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I am quite pleased how good the fit is considering how old the kit is so off came the roof and the back again to allow me the paint the inside.  I didn't bother to prime the inside as I was going to spray the Tamiya paint neat without any thinners because once its all covered the paint will be protected from chipping, etc.

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With the base coats down and before I sealed them with a coat of Klear, I wanted to add the poster.  As I have got a few I thought I would test how I was going to do it first.  So out came my "buster" as it has a coat of paint from another trail and I proceeded to cut out one of the other posters to see how they look.  I used Roket Card Glue to stick down the poster which is excellent stuff and worked a treat.  Then after a few minutes I gave it a good strong coat of Klear to see what would happen.  The good thing was the Klear was absorbed into the paper and once dry gave a nice shiny finish and there was no colour bleed from the poster.

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So in went Lord Kitchener.

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Then I gave everything a few coats of Klear and on to the weathering.  I did the seats first with a Citadel wash, then I went around everything with a home made oil pin wash and tidied it up with a cotton bud with oil paint thinner on it.  Finally I used Flory Models clay wash for the floor.  You might not see most of the washes when the roof and the back is on but I wanted to see what the pin wash was like on the window covers.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #5 
Ian. perfection achieved!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #6 
Looks like you're having fun :-)
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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks guys.  Next on the list is the chassis which comes in two parts which run the full length of the bus.  The problem I had was they were slightly bent out of shape.  To get around this to square them off all I did was to first glue the rear part of one of the chassis parts first.  I only ran the glue about an inch from the rear then I placed the chassis on to the bottom of the bus.  Because the underneath of the bus has angles all over the place I couldn't use a clamp so I had to hold the part in place until I glue dried which wasn't that long.  Then I ran about another inch of glue and repeated the process until I had done the whole side glued in place and it was square.  I had to do this on both sides.

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That done I moved on to the front of the bus.

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This was straight forward to do ensuring that its square.

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This was then glued to the front of the chassis along with the drivers foot well.

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There isn't much detail underneath the engine compartment except for the sump which to me looked a bit thin so I added a few bits of scrap plastic to make it thicker and to give the impression of an engine under the bonnet/hood (depending where you are from).  To do this I just stuck the kit part to the plastic and let it dry.

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Then using a razor saw and the kit part as a guide I removed the excess plastic and tidied it up with a sanding stick.  Then I added another layer of plastic and so on until I was happy.

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I then looked at the drive train which I thought I could improve a touch.

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I measured and made a note of the lengths of the prop shafts and I cut them off.  For the middle and rear boxes I did the same as I did for the sump.  Gluing them to a piece of plastic and cutting them out.

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For the joint from the prop shaft to the flywheel I was going to tidy it up but I thought I would have ago at making my own.

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I used a small piece of brass tube and a brass washer, also because the inside diameter of the tube was a bit too big.  I used a plastic tube which started its like as a cotton bud stem cut to size.  As for the flywheel I had to enlarge the centre to take the brass tube.

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I joined the brass washer to the tube using a soldering iron and solder paste.

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For the prop shafts themselves I used a piece of cooper wire.

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Here I test fitted on the chassis to see how it looks.

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The middle box looked a bit too thick so I sanded it down to my it thinner and I added the rear springs.

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When I was happy I glued the plastic to plastic parts with Tamiya glue and metal to plastic with CA glue.

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I thought I would show you how I straighten the copper wire I use.  To take out the large bends I used flat smooth nose pliers to produce a roughly straight piece of wire.

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Then I just press down using a metal rule and roll the wire under the rule.

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And thats it.

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I used the piece of copper wire to make a new exhaust pipe producing the bends with a pair of smooth flat nosed pliers.

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For the end of the exhaust I used a piece of bent brass tube.

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I cut it to size and glued in place.

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Cheers
Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #8 
Ian,

Seriously I am looking at the WIP thread and smiling as you improve one detail after another and make it all work, then you give us beautiful photographs and text to teach us how you did everything. I could see you making videos to help modelers build out kits with modifications and scratch building and sell them??? Kind of the same idea as the companies that produce AM resin cockpits and PE and such? You are way kind to share so much here. I have the same intention, but my work is far from what you put together.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #9 
Thanks Ted but if I did that I think my wife would get upset and my diplomacy in talking her around isn't that good.  The last time I tried it I told her there is only one beautiful model in my life and her reaction I got was a cup of coffee and a hug.  Then I told her it's a 1/48 Spitfire in my shed and all of a sudden the mood changes.  I must be doing something wrong.  Maybe I should have said Hurricane, Mosquito or even a P-51?  You just can't win!  [smile]    
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #10 
Ian,

Lol.......seriously, maybe you should have stopped at the coffee and hug? I totally understand. I guess that is one of many reasons that after a 30yr marriage/divorce and 12 years with my GF [we only started living in the same house last April/2015], I will never marry again. To each his own. I always refer to the fact that scale model hobby is cheaper and safer than drugs? true story. Well, at least we can all enjoy what you are able to do and you seem to enjoy it as well---that is the most important thing in my book--IMHO.

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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #11 
Ted I have been married for over 24 years and my wife says I have enjoyed every minute.  Now something doesn't quite sound right there.  My wife says, hmmmmm..........

Joking aside here is the latest update.  I was about to assemble the front axle until I looked on the sprue at the track rod and noticed part of it was missing.

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To me it looks like they have had problems with the mould when they took this sprue out.  I thought I would use the track rod from an old kit but the plastic was that brittle it snapped as soon as I touched it.  I could get in touch with Airfix's spares department which are pretty good and fast but I thought I would have a go at making my own.  First I bent and cut a pin to make two right angles.  For the rod itself I used a syringe needle with the internal diameter to take the pins.  I used the needle instead of brass tube because they are stronger and cheaper.  The only drawback is they are harder to cut than the brass so I used my Dremel with a cutting disc.

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I then tested fitted them as normal.

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When I was happy and the rod was central I glued them all together using CA glue.

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Then I just glued the whole assembly to the chassis.

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I had a look at the front mudguards and I decided to strengthen them by making my own brackets using the same materials as the track rod.  First using smooth flat nosed pliers I bent a pin to shape.

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I needed two of these one from each mudguard.

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I test fitted to check they would be ok and cleared the wheel.

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For the rear bracket I removed the plastic peg and sanded it smooth then I replaced it with a cut piece of syringe needle.  The photo's I have seen of this bracket it is lower on the mudguard but I decided to keep it in the kit location to make it stronger.  When I was happy I glued them with CA glue.

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Job done.  The front bumper had snapped on the sprue so I made one from copper wire.  I could have made a "D" shaped one but I have seen pictures of straight ones so being lazy thats the one I used.  I also made the crank from a bent pin.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #12 
Ian, GREAT Work to overcome kit deficiencies and add nice detail. Looks like a working system.

I love this: "Ted I have been married for over 24 years and my wife says I have enjoyed every minute.  Now something doesn't quite sound right there.  My wife says, hmmmmm.........."

Reminds me of the joke about a man and woman having an argument in the bedroom. The husband proclaims that he is "king of the castle!, he makes the rules! and what he says goes". His wife responds,"Sure you are, now come out from under the bed and say that again!

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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks Ted [smile].  I have done a bit more work on the bus by adding the upper deck, wooden side boards and stairs.  After I cleaned up the top deck parts I made the wooden side boards the same way as the window covers from plasticard.  Then it was just a case of holding the deck sides with tape and gluing in place.  Once the glue on upper deck was completely cured I started on the stairs.  Once again the parts required cleaning up a bit due to the age of the kit and once I was happy I first tried test fitting which was a pain due to the shape of the stairs, I glued the small platform supporting the stairs to the rear of the bus ensuring it was as level as I could get it.  I then glued the stair treads to the rear outside stair side.  Once dry this enabled me to fit the stairs to the rear of the bus and platform.  The reason I haven't attached the small inside stair wall was because it requires fitting and sanding to the back wall of the bus where I have attached a window cover and I thought I would get the main stairs attached first.  With the main stairs on the bus I glued the remaining small inside stair wall in place and I left it overnight to cure.

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The railings on the top deck weren't long enough so to get around this I cut a small scrap piece of plastic and used home made Tamiya filler to bridge the gap.  Once the filler has gone rock hard it was sanded.

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__________________
Cheers
Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #14 
looking so nice! did I see this finished build in a video of a scale model show? wish I had recorded the name and link to the show.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #15 
Thanks Ted.  I wouldn't mind having a look at this video.  The photo's for the last post were only taken this morning.  I would have done more today but I took my wife to a Catherine Jenkins concert which was taking place in Herrington Country Park only a few hundred yards from my house, just amazing we were just feet away from the stage.  Her next performance is for Her Majesty The Queen for her 90th birthday at Windsor next week.
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Cheers
Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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