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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #16 
Textured paint? does not matter how many coats of clear you apply, it just builds up on the texture with each layer. You would have to sand the finish down smooth and go from there.

Most likely the problem was: 1-paint too thin and it dried in the air before hitting the model or 2-AB too far from model and the paint again dried in the air. or it can be a combination of the two factors?

Paint is one [just one of many skills I struggle with]. I laid own a LOT of dry powdery finishes before I found out what I was doing wrong. My Mig 29 was the worst. I kept making the same mistake over and over and over.

Hope it all comes out OK--probably will!

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bitzadoggy

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Reply with quote  #17 
Something to learn for the next time.

With regards to the decals that represent the red tape that goes over the gunports. Should I try and paint the black marks from firing the guns on top or underneath the decals? Would a new bit of tape be put down when re-arming and therefore would they develop the balck marks on it or not?
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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #18 
The red tape was replaced after each mission as part of the reloading and rearming process. So it should be clean with the powder stains under them.

For a more realistic look, what I do is weather the gunports and then cut little squares of tape, attach them with a touch of CA and then paint them red. But I've seen it look just as good with the decals too.
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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #19 
Great progress mate!
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bitzadoggy

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Reply with quote  #20 
I could do with a bit of help from you guys and girls. I was starting to put down a little panel line wash, using a humbrol panel line wash and some Mr Sticky's brush enamel thinner. I'd sealed in the decals with some pledge multi-surface polish. Applied the wash to a small area while i was figuring out the consitency and checking the colour, I then began to clear it off with a cotton bud dipped in the same thinner. Then I noticed the paint was wrinkling up. I stopped, my gut feeling is that using the brush thinners is a little too strong and I shuold try an alternative but I thought I'd check oin for some advice from some people who may have made this mistake before me.

Pictures attached





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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #21 
Sorry about the problem. So the panel line wash is an enamel? Perhaps you needed more overcoat layer before the line wash? Or,...when you dipped the cotton swab in the thinner, you should have rolled most of it off on a paper towel. Too much thinner will eat through the clear coat. When applying the wash, you have to use minimal amount and let it flow into the lines. If your u apply too much and it overflows outside the lines, then you have too much to clean and up, and apply too much thinner. I typically feel safer doing a sludge wash and remove the excess with damp paper towel and cotton buds. If you have a problem with a sludge wash it comes off easily and you can repeat the wash as much as you want.
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Gnarkill1984

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Reply with quote  #22 
Shame that.

Get yourself some odourless terp from a hobby shop. It's not overly aggressive and works wonders with enamel paints. Only issues I have ever had was using it on alclad metals but it was still rare

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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #23 
Ah! Ouch.

I find that acrylic washes are much friendlier to work with. Water wash up after an enamel clear coat.

That looks like you may want to sand and repaint that are carefully. Then proceed with more caution.
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Gnarkill1984

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Reply with quote  #24 
I got a bottle of revell paint remover aqua and it works a treat at removing even dried acrylic (works on enamel too)
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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #25 
HL carries Testors Acrylic dried paint remover that will eat through enamel as well. Powerful stuff! I bought it thinking it was AB thinner, but it never worked for that lol.

You'll feel better once you clean that area and get it repaired.
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bitzadoggy

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Reply with quote  #26 
Hi All,

Thanks for the replies. I'm sory to say I wimped out of sanding and repairing the area. I looked at it the next day and decided I could live with it. This build is already at a far higher standard than anything I've created previously, despite the damage. I managed to pick up some humbrol thinners from the local model shop and they have behaved quite nicely, so it must have been the other thinners. I've made some nice headway with the weathering, putting in a panel line wash, then some streaking with oils and finally a touch of chipping with some acylics. I've tried to keep it subtle. The photos seem to show the yellow streaks a little brighter than they look with the naked eye, they appear a little more browny orange - I think it might be the artificial lighting. Still the end is in sight now, just a matt coat, some unmasking and painting the lights, hopefully that will all go smoothly. Thanks again for the help.




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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #27 
Only one critique... Your ailerons need to be in opposition. They can't both be down lol.

That's it. The rest of this, even the small paint snafu, looks great. The finish line is calling you. [biggrin]
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Gnarkill1984

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Reply with quote  #28 
The paint doesn't look too bad at all now.

I echo what mr broncos said, on modern jets ailerons have the possibly of both being dropped but on the older aircraft they would never be in this position (unless totally Unserviceable) as they are cable controlled and linked to oppose eachother to create roll.

Here's my spit, sorry for the crap pic.

Yours should be a relatively easy fix [smile]

[IMG_1326]

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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #29 
Mr. Broncos? Autocorrect failure, or what? Lol.

Pah! Broncos. (Shakes head)
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Gnarkill1984

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Brindos
Mr. Broncos? Autocorrect failure, or what? Lol.

Pah! Broncos. (Shakes head)


Hahahaha. What auto correct failure [wink]

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