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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #16 
Two for one, nice one Mike.

As they say slow and gently, catchie monkey (did I get that right Pete, one of you mojo comments :lol[smile].

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mikeboiter

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Reply with quote  #17 
Yeah it is definitely going to be slow on this one. Got started last night and I can tell already that the getting the seams on the intake are going to be a huge pain.

I have a question for anyone that cares to answer. On the cockpit it has molded detail, but it also comes with decals. I was considering using them, but if you do do you need to sand all the detail off, or does it act like a topographical map and the decal forms around all the details. Just curious cause I have always just tossed cockpit decals and painted it.

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #18 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nigel56
Two for one, nice one Mike. As they say slow and gently, catchie monkey (did I get that right Pete, one of you mojo comments :lol[smile].


"softly softly catchy monkey"

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeboiter
Yeah it is definitely going to be slow on this one. Got started last night and I can tell already that the getting the seams on the intake are going to be a huge pain.

I have a question for anyone that cares to answer. On the cockpit it has molded detail, but it also comes with decals. I was considering using them, but if you do do you need to sand all the detail off, or does it act like a topographical map and the decal forms around all the details. Just curious cause I have always just tossed cockpit decals and painted it.



good question. I have not tried to decal over raised IP detail. Maybe you could sand the detail down part way? hopefully someone with the real answer will chime in?

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unang43

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Reply with quote  #20 
Mike,

I tried decaling over the raised cockpit detail on my HB Tornado. It could have been the HB decals, but the result was less than perfect. No problem if the canopy is closed. The decals only have so much elasticity before they crack even with decal softener. In my opinion go with the detail as is and dry brush Tamiya XF-19. Hopefully you'll be pleased with the results. If not, sand it back and decal away on a flat surface. My 2 cents for what it's worth [smile]

Sean

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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #21 
You also can highlight the raised detail with a white pencil. I tried this in my Corsair build and it worked fine. If you are brave enough you can use Tamiya extra thin over the decal. This should tuck them in but there is a big chance that everything goes horribly wrong... good to try on a scrap piece first!!!
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #22 
I do have one more possible idea. I tried to drill out the instrument dials, then fasten the decal to a very thin piece of styrene, then attach it to the back of the IP with white glue, then overcoat the dials with a drop of white glue? makes the instruments have "depth" along with the details you get. I ruined the decal before i got to complete the idea. long story.
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mikeboiter

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Reply with quote  #23 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
I do have one more possible idea. I tried to drill out the instrument dials, then fasten the decal to a very thin piece of styrene, then attach it to the back of the IP with white glue, then overcoat the dials with a drop of white glue? makes the instruments have "depth" along with the details you get. I ruined the decal before i got to complete the idea. long story.


That is an awesome Idea, I think I will give that a shot. I had never even considered that before. 
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeboiter
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
I do have one more possible idea. I tried to drill out the instrument dials, then fasten the decal to a very thin piece of styrene, then attach it to the back of the IP with white glue, then overcoat the dials with a drop of white glue? makes the instruments have "depth" along with the details you get. I ruined the decal before i got to complete the idea. long story.


That is an awesome Idea, I think I will give that a shot. I had never even considered that before. 


Of course its not my idea. I found it somewhere by accident. Its in my Corsair WIP thread here:

http://genessis-models.websitetoolbox.com/post/148-hobby-boss-f4u4-corsair-early-7525779?&trail=30

I felt that painting the inside of the drilled out dials white would be a good idea, bit ALL reference pictures show the dials to be dark and the dial faces dark just like the decal. I guess it reduced glare?

I did sand the IP quite thin so that the dials would be more visible. Might have looked good if I had not destroyed the decal!! oh well---you can do it much better I am sure.

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mikeboiter

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Reply with quote  #25 
Well guys I have made a little progress. So far it is going together pretty easy. The kit has really good panel line and rivet detail. I do wish they had molded a little more detail on the landing gear and in the wheel wells. But that just gives me the opportunity to do some hydraulic lines with some lead wire. Speaking of which for 1/48 scale what size diameter should I get so that it looks to scale. Here are a few pics that I took Saturday. I am a little farther along now but I wanted to share a little something


 photo 20150906_232054.jpg

Here is the rear well. The area where my thumb is had to be sanded back quite a bit. When I was dry fitting it in the fuselage it was pushing it out and not allowing for a good fit, but that was fairly easy to get it thinned out to the correct shape.

 photo 20150906_231958.jpg

The cockpit is pretty sparse on the detail. I think I am going to take the idea that was shared with me of drilling out the dials and putting the decals on a thin piece of styrene, gluing that to the back of the panel and then using white glue to make the dials look there is glass in them. the rest of the cockpit I am going to just paint all over gray and black where need be and dry brush. I also have a resin ejection seat that I am going to put in here. Depending on how it looks when done I may just build it with the canopy closed. I am hoping that when all the weathering is finished it will look better than I suspect it will.

 photo 20150906_232155.jpg

Here is my biggest gripe. The way all this comes together here I am not sure I would be able to get this area seamless. I think I am going to just scratch build an intake cover and save myself some stress. If I didnt give myself such a tight deadline on everything I may take a whack at getting this all seamless but I do this for fun not to suppress the urge to throw it against the wall [tongue] . I have also decided to get an aftermarket pitot tube. I am really not happy with the one that is included in the kit.

 photo 20150906_231919.jpg

Lastly here is the upper wing. This had some weird stuff going on. There are these rubber inserts that go in the back that lined up the front, back and the side with the clamps really well. But on the other side it was about 1/16"(1.5mm) too long, that required me to sand and fill.

Well please feel free to give any pointers if there is anything you see that I am doing that is completely boneheaded. Again I am trying to find out the proper size lead wire for 1/48 hydraulic lines so any help there would be appreciated. I will posting more as soon as I have something to show. 

Later guys.
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #26 
Good to see you get started on this Mike,

A quick one about the decals over the raised side panels, sometimes even if the decal does conform to the lumps and bumps the printed instuments don't match the moulded ones and it can look a bit odd, so I would go with the guys suggestions and either leave it and paint or sand and decal.

I feel your intake woes too mate, they always seem to be a pain in jet kits (I think all of us in the Phantom group build had nightmares with them regardless of manufacturer)

For lead wire I'm not 100% sure of what size for 1/48 as I build in 1/32 but I reckon 0.2 or 0.3 wouldn't be far wrong, hopefully some of the memebers who work in this scale can confirm ?

Pete
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mikeboiter

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Reply with quote  #27 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brundledonk
Good to see you get started on this Mike, A quick one about the decals over the raised side panels, sometimes even if the decal does conform to the lumps and bumps the printed instuments don't match the moulded ones and it can look a bit odd, so I would go with the guys suggestions and either leave it and paint or sand and decal. I feel your intake woes too mate, they always seem to be a pain in jet kits (I think all of us in the Phantom group build had nightmares with them regardless of manufacturer) For lead wire I'm not 100% sure of what size for 1/48 as I build in 1/32 but I reckon 0.2 or 0.3 wouldn't be far wrong, hopefully some of the memebers who work in this scale can confirm ? Pete


Thanks for the reply, not being sure of the size has kept me from getting any lead wire in the past. I think I will go with the 0.2. Yeah this is one of the worst intakes I have seen on a kit that I have worked on. Usually its just one or two, this is going to be 5 seams to deal with. Aint nobody got time for that.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #28 
Intakes...........the word strikes fear in my heart and makes my hands weak!
If you drop a resin seat in that cockpit you might be surprised about how good it looks when it is all done.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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mikeboiter

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Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
Intakes...........the word strikes fear in my heart and makes my hands weak!
If you drop a resin seat in that cockpit you might be surprised about how good it looks when it is all done.


That is my hope and prayer for the cockpit......... Yeah I think that the intake cover will look pretty sweet and allow me to keep stress in my life at low levels while avoiding the endless filling and sanding that this model would require to get them looking acceptable.
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WALSHAMP

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeboiter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brundledonk
Good to see you get started on this Mike, A quick one about the decals over the raised side panels, sometimes even if the decal does conform to the lumps and bumps the printed instuments don't match the moulded ones and it can look a bit odd, so I would go with the guys suggestions and either leave it and paint or sand and decal. I feel your intake woes too mate, they always seem to be a pain in jet kits (I think all of us in the Phantom group build had nightmares with them regardless of manufacturer) For lead wire I'm not 100% sure of what size for 1/48 as I build in 1/32 but I reckon 0.2 or 0.3 wouldn't be far wrong, hopefully some of the memebers who work in this scale can confirm ? Pete


Thanks for the reply, not being sure of the size has kept me from getting any lead wire in the past. I think I will go with the 0.2. Yeah this is one of the worst intakes I have seen on a kit that I have worked on. Usually its just one or two, this is going to be 5 seams to deal with. Aint nobody got time for that.


yeah, 0.2 looks ok to me.  I've actually just ordered a roll of 0.25 solder wire to use instead of the lead wire you can get for modelling.  if it works like I hope it will its a way cheaper alternative.  will let you know.

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