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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #1 
This is the current build on my workbench at the moment.

[ftssG2] 

A little bit of background on this build.  I have had this kit for a while and decided that I  was going to build it with the engine exposed.  I also made the decision to design and then 3d print the engine myself,  there is a separate post in the build section where I discuss this, this post will be a combination of that process and the kit build.

The Typhoon was powered by the Napier Sabre engine, which was a 24 cylinder sleeve valve engine.  Not without its problems in service, it was a brute of an engine. 

The start of the whole process started about a year ago, I spent an age trawling the Interweb to get the necessary plans and pictures to make a decent copy of the engine.  I also bought a copy of Bentleys 1/48 scale Typhoon drawings.

The model of the engine was done in Autodesk Fusion 360, and involved in the region of 100 plus hours.  To be fair most of that was due to learning how to use the software.

The final design below is a result of alterations made to the design of the engine after the initial test prints.

   
     [7EBkUm] 

[WmEn6F] 
[mlTWwD] 
 


The main changes were the exhausts, in my initial design the stubbs were completely hollowing and didn't have the external weld seam.  This made the wall thickness too thin to print correctly, so I made them mostly solid with the ends hollow.  I also create a set of separate stubbs that could be added latter if there were any print problems.

I also redesigned the firewall and engine mount, this was to include part of the frame I had missed off, but mostly so it would fit in the Italeri kit.  The firewall was made thinner in width to take account of the thickness of the plastic in the kit.

Once this was all done the model has to be split into smaller parts to take into account the capabilities of the 3d printing process. Each part has to be support on a lattice and placement of these is crucial to the success of the print

[pfaF95] 

The printer I used is a Anycubic Photon 3d printer, this uses a LCD screen and a bath of liquid light sensitive resin, the 3d model is chopped into about 500 slices each 5 microns thick and the print is slowly (over 5 hours) created 1 layer at a time.

[6bJWfD]  
   [3b4erU] 

Once the print is finished it is removed from the build plate and clean with alcohol.



[cuSE9K] 
The parts are then exposed under a cheap uv Nail light to completely cure the resin hard. The supports are then removed.

[mg12W7] 
The next stage was getting the kit ready to accept the engine, firstly by open out the holes for the exhausts using a minidrill.


[Z05EpH] 

With this completed I removed the top of the engine cowling using a razor saw and a panel scribber and then the fuselage was glued.

I used a initial engine I printed to test the fit.

[5Hgh2V] 

As a result I had to thin the plastic at the front and insert a small fillet to close the gap.  The was then sanded to match the profile of the cowl.

[fymchI]  

   I then started on the cockpit frame and the sidewalls, the assembly for these is pretty straight forward, they were undercoat in black and then base coated in green 


[DqUDay] 
The engine is put together with superglue, had a black base coat and then a light grey dry brushing.  The appropriate elements are then picked out in silver.
[z2mBMU] 

All these parts where then given a satin varnish and a first weathering with panel liner.

[3sV1pg] 

The next part will be weathering the engine and adding the ignition leads and wiring.





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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #2 
Wow.  I am totally in awe.  Basic computers themselves are a dark art to me, but printing your own engine?  Massive respect, my friend, massive respect.
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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #3 
Just a few progress pics.

[image] 
Getting the engine and firewall to fit took a bit of finagling, but sits in a pretty good position now.  You might be able to see a fairly big gap at the wing root.  This a known issue with this kit, most of the builds I have read have this problem. 

[image]  Most of the gap is filled with some plastic card and finished with some vallejo filler.   The cockpit has been fixed in place. 

[image] 
After thinning down the thickness of the fuselage to conform with the engine firewall the top was glued on.   The engine was masked, the rad hole covered with foam.  Then the undercoat layered with thin passes.

[image] 
Pre shaded with tamiya black rubber.

[image]  After I finished this i noticed a couple of stratches I had missed.  These were filled with Mr surface 1200.

Will start with some colour tomorrow.

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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #4 
Great progress.
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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #5 
Here's an update on this build

I have put on the base colours,  using ak interactive late war RAF colour set.  This is the first time I have used their paints and the went on pretty good. 

   

  [T2jw34]   

I have sprayed on the invasion stripes,  although the kit does come with these as decals.  As it turns out this was a good idea as I will explain. 


After the base colours were done the model got a gloss coat and the decals applied and then another gloss coat ready for weathering. 

  [NoBocK]   
This is where I ran into a problem, I masked up each panel line to apply a smoke colour.  Even though the decals were glossed and I removed the stickiness of the tape it proceeded to tear off the decals.   Never had this happen before.  I think the gloss was probably past its sell by date. So this is the panel's shaded,  minus the ruined decals.

  [wFeGnr]    


  [JWHMVQ]   
So I had to spray on the wing roundels, top and bottom and the tail flag. 


  [vpnIyU]   

So after all that faff it got another gloss(with a different product) coat and then the whole thing got a wash with a dirty mix of panel line wash mixed with black oil paint. 


  [uDk4kf]    


  [jEjcsZ]   

Waited for this to dry slightly and then removed with a paper towel.

  [X42TUn]   
So my plan is this to be a Normandy based Typhoon, I have a base ready for this to sit on.  So I wanted it to look very dusty, with that in mind I applied a dot filter with oils (using migs oil brushers) using mostly light tones on top and some darker ones underneath. The dots were blended in the direction of the air flow. The model then got a matt varnish coat

  [5x2RUg]     

[11ppH9] 

Next stage will be the undercarriage and wheels.

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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #6 
Started to work on the base, still some work to do on the engine its not actually glued in place yet.

[e51ixQ]


[RwvH2d] 
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #7 
Amazing !!!! The engine is so detailed... incredible. Very inspiring...
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #8 
Cheers Alain that's very kind of you to comment.
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #9 
I was so impressed by the way you created the engine... building the model is the most exciting part to me now, maybe because I still struggle with painting and weathering... But I LOVE using all kind of tools. Just received the Micro-Mark spring catalog in the mailbox yesterday...a huge selection of catching eye tools ... the quality is not too bad for hobby purpose and they are very serious. Not the chealest but I had a few issues on Ebay last weeks... Ended well but it was a waste of time and energy... so it is worth sometimes to give a few $ extra to have a A1 service !!!
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Alain [crazy]
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Zeenoevil

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Reply with quote  #10 

U realy got a real Gem going there!
Love that dusty, smoke colour you applied on the wings and tail. Realy gives the whole thing that dusty look you were after!!
Great job!! [thumb][thumb][thumb]

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #11 
OMG my mind is blown by the 3D printed parts. Beautiful! The whole project is exquisite
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #12 
Ted, Zeenovil,

Thanks for your comments guys.

Getting close to finishing this now,  off to the  ModelKraft show this weekend so I will post an update next week.

Mark
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #13 
Fantastic work, love the weathering in particular.
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whiteladder

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Reply with quote  #14 

So some further work on the base. The rocks are under coated in white and then washed with grey, brown and green acrylics.  These are all add while each coat is still wet.  The wood planks are painted in various shades browns and greys and then a orange filter.  The marston metal plates are sprayed green and then dark brown a applied with a sponge. 

[LMBYHT] 

  
Start to add the grass with a static flock applicator. I have about half of of the base done in this picture.  The flock is applied in 2 coats, dark green and then a lighter coat. The nail is the attach the static clip to. Used some rust enamel on the end of the discarded metal planking

[q6a6Q5]     
  
Flocking completed I gave the planking a random dusting of pastel power


[WFxF5q] 

[fFHFPF] 

  


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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #15 
Great looking dio!
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