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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #91 
that is some nice detail about how you are solving problems and using CA glue and baking soda. very nice WIP and pictures. thank you!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #92 
I re-scribed EE Lightning F.2A:s panel lines on top and bottom of the fuselage, and they seems to be ok now.
 
[Cockpit_back_start-800] 
BAC Lightning F.3 (old) needs still some care in cockpit area. some MrSurfacer 500 is used to smooth the step between cockpit back wall and models wall. 

[Cockpit_back_added-800] 
It is then painted in grey and some soldering lead (0,7mm) is used to do the structure needed. I also put some styrene and finer soldering lead to the area. I didn't pay too much attention to that area as I think that under heavily framed canopy not much can be seen. 
 
[Cockpit_front-800] 
The part behind the windscreen also needs some attention as there is about nothing in it. An 0,3mm styrene sheet is used. First I cut it roughly to shape and then bent it over the area. Then it was cut to shape and I glued forward part. After the forward part was fixed the sides were glued. It became too high (as I expected), so I cut V-shaped part out of it and bent it some more. Now the part was at the right height. The radar view finder was done from styrene rod and glued on the right hand side of the dashboard. 
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #93 
I really like to see how details are added form scratch. thanks for sharing that step with us. I sometimes add things I know won't show--but I know that they are there and that counts most in my book. besides, you have pics of them in the WIP thread, right?
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #94 
Now something that would definitely be showing: Nose ring / radome was still missing from the fuselage. 

[Radome_compare_text-800] 
Comparison between F.3 (old) mold and F.2A (new) mold. The F.3:s radome seems to be much too rounded from the tip.

[Radome_sanded-800] 
Therefore I had to sand it more pointy. I tried to sand it not only on the tip of the radome but more evenly on the whole radome, it isn't totally strait but it made the trick. I could have added material to the tip but I considered this would be easier to master.

[Radome_painted-800] 
The radome is painted in Tamiya Nato Green (XF-67) and inside of it was painted in Flat Aluminum (XF-16). There is no internal parts in inlet but it doesn't seem to bother me as there is no much room to see beside radome and the black in there is convincing enough. The holes for aligning the nose ring was about half clogged and I have to drill it open. 
 
Luckily the holes were in the right places and the nosering fitted the fuselage surprisingly well. Just some tamiya glue was used and some light sanding.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #95 
I just went back and took another look at all the pictures and instructions on filling seams. would make a great video? the comparison work on the two kits is very interesting and I cannot wait to see them side by side! it will be a double birth.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #96 
TedUSA: You are right, that would make good video, but I'll leave video-things to Bobby and others who are professionals or do like to do videos. I myself like this kind of old/new double build also and I'm already planning the FJ-4B double build.. This really is a risk to build these two 'side by side' as there is the time limit and this old kit takes quite some time to build and the new one has to wait until this reaches the same state, but it seems to be today as I can show those side by side again!
 
[Cockpit_compare_back-800] 
After all this I painted and weathered it as with new F.2A (UA029 and wash for panzer grey). Next I had to do the gun sight. The bottom part was made from styrene and one small hole was punched into that. Then from some package wrapping was used to cut out the sight. It was glued with Humbrol clearfix, which dries clear..
 
[Cockpit_compare_front-800] 
The F.2A also got its hood (?) and sight. Now it's time to get the pilot inside F.3..
 
[Cockpit_compare_side-800] 
BAC Lightning F.3 (old) and EE Lightning F.2A (new) are now about at the same state, long time since! It's just a month to go, but luckily most of the building stage is now done..

[Cockpit_compare_wo_wings_angle-800]
By the way, the intake to fuselage top is done from styrene rod.
[Cockpit_compare_wo_wings_bottom-800]
[Cockpit_compare_wo_wings_side-800]   
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #97 
I don't see how you are doing the dbl build but the proof is right on front of me and its really cool. Watching both kits come together has been a real show. I like that picture where the planes are stacked and the pilots are facing one another--ode to "Top Gun"?? really taking shape now. congratulations on reaching this milestone in the project!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #98 
TedUSA: I really can't do them both at the same time, but some synergy can be found. Normally I have some aircraft in different stages ie. as one is on building stage another is on decaling stage, but on these I try to make them side by side.
  
The wings are glued next. On the new F.2A the instructions clearly showed in what angle the flaps should be. This is very nice touch as you don't have to think/search about those.

[Flap_gluing-800]
Measurement of the flap angle. The wings on EE Lightning F.2A went on extremely well, some Mr surfacer 500 filler was used to smoothen the seams.

[Wings_glued_left-800] 
[Wings_glued_right-800] 
On the BAC Lightning F.3 there was some more filling and sanding with wing/fuselage seam, but not worse than anywhere else on the plane.
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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #99 
The canopies are quite different:

[Canopy_compare_text-800] 
The BAC Lightning F.3 (old) was extremely thick and foggy. It was also in one peace as there is no other clear parts for old mold anyway. The EE Lightning F.2A (new) canopy was in two parts, separate wind shield was provided as well as clear search heads for (Red Top and Firestreak) missiles.

[Canopy_start_2-800] 
The thickness etc wasn't the only problem with old canopy, on the right side there is the thing that is supposed to align the canopy to the right place. Unfortunately it goes too far up and it is shown through window even if the canopy sides are painted.
[Canopy_start-800] 
Only thing that will improve that is sanding and polishing that part off the canopy. I used nail-polisher (but the rough sanding was made with regular file) to get the most out of way.

[Canopy_ready-800] 
I had to modify the nail-polisher so that I could reach far enough. I cut the sides away from very top of the tool. After polish I dipped canopy to floor wax and that's perhaps best I could get out of the old canopy.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #100 
what a huge difference in those canopies and what a great job you did with them!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #101 
TedUSA: Thanks! The old mold just seems to throw everything it can against me. But in general the canopies in old molds are quite poor, so I could have known. 

Canopies needs masking and I think that it is easiest to do before I attach them to the model.

[Canopy_masking-800] 
I used Micron 0,7mm masking tape (although 0,4mm would perhaps been better). I noticed that in F.2A model canopy frames are quite prominent so I could have used 'papertape for wounds' and sharp hobby knife. First the tape is taped on the window and the corners pressed with cocktail stick. Then NEW hobby blade is used to cut along canopy lines as those can be easily seen as in picture. I used this technique in top of the canopy and front window.

[Canopy_masking-800] 
On the F.3 (old) model the canopy frames were lighter and I used normal masking tape masking. 

[Canopies_masked_text-800] 
Both canopies received MrMasking liquid on top between tapes. This is strange material as it clogs on itself in the jar. And if it dries on canopy and you try to add new the old extremely easily pulls away. But it is very easy to peel off after the painting is done.
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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #102 
I glued F.3 canopy with white glue. It is easy to get the fit right with that media and it is more or less transparent so overspill is not fatal. Another good thing is that it is water solvable.

[Canopy_gluing_1-800] 
First some glue is put to place where the canopy is supposed to go.

[Canopy_gluing_2-800] 
Then some clamping..

[Canopy_gluing_3-800] 
After the canopy is in place I put glue to the seam with cocktail stick.

[Canopy_gluing_4-800] 
Excessive glue is removed with water dipped cotton swab. 

[Canopy_gluing_5-800] 
The fit isn't too good, so some MrSurfacer 500 is used to fill the gaps. 
 
[Wind_shield_glued-800] 
I decided that F.2A canopy would be at least partly open as I think that F.3 would be sleek version and F.2A would have everything hanging out. The windshield is glued with Humbrol Clearfix and the canopy is put to place with masking fluid, as I hope that it would therefore be easy to lift off and still protect cockpit from any paint.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #103 
you are moving forward at a great pace. I like to see how each modeler does the canopy work since I seem to always botch mine to some degree or another--thanks for detailing what you did--very helpful.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

Flight Sergeant
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Posts: 322
Reply with quote  #104 
TedUSA: I have to have good pace to get these ready in this month. I try to get something done every day, in this pace I should have something ready in time if there isn't major setbacks. This is much faster than my normal building and all my spare time goes to these. There is downside as I haven't use too much time to inspect how these should be painted or weathered, but these things lays before me now..

[Compare_before_painting_top-800] 
It is time to put masking to the F.2A landing gear bays. I have never had so easy masking as in this mold you have both landing gear doors: inflight and on ground. The fit is extremely good and I just put some blue tack to the bays and put the doors in place.

[Compare_before_painting_bottom-800] 
I used sticks from balloons to mask exhaust/ to have some point where I could handle planes while painting.

[Compare_basecoat_painting_side-800] 
Then it is finally time to get some paint to the models, although it is just base coat to check that seams and carvings are as they should. I used Alclad grey base which has some micro filler in it. Then I checked the desired parts and they seemed to be ok except the F.3 (old) canopy fitting to fuselage. Some sanding is needed. 

[Compare_basecoat_painting_top-800]
They look quite nice in gray too..
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #105 
Very inspiring modelling, very interesting seeing how you are improving the old airfix, while building the new, lots of great techniques and skill going on here !

Pete
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