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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #106 
the interest factor here is off the radar!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #107 
[Cockpit_surroundings-800] 
I couldn't get picture which would have showed the cockpit surroundings after base coat, but here is the picture after I have sanded it again. Gray is very good as it shows biggest problems on the seams etc quite easily, but only the metal cote shows all the scratches.  Both models were sanded/ polished smooth as the base coat leaves satin finish. 
 
[Undersige_black-800] 
Here is my airbrush Badger 360 after the F.2A (new) has been painted with Alclad black primer. Only underside is painted as upper surfaces will be green. No pre-shading is done as I think green will be so dark that nohing from pre-shading would be seen after all.

[black_premier_Bottom-800]
[black_premier_Top-800]   
F.3 (old) is painted totally (except tail) black, as it's going to be aluminum finished all over. Encarved panel lines are showing at last..


As I mentioned before F.3 (old) will be the 56 squadrons with red/white checkerboard tail, with aftermarket decals.

[Painting_instructions-800] 
Painting instructions were simple black & white...

The F.2A (new) will be green version from package because even if I really love colorful Lightnings two of these wouldn't give justice for all color combinations they were and the green was used solely with 19th/92nd squadron [F.2(A)]. 

[Painting_instructions_text-800] 
The colorful painting instruction is nice, but it had some mistakes.
 
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prototype-23

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Reply with quote  #108 
Thanks for sharing all these pics, techniques and your research for building these kits!
I enjoy reading but now i know the panel mistakes of my kit too [tongue]
I hope you finish them in time

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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #109 
prototype-23: I suppose that you mean the F.2A. Some comments on that.. The panel lines that I made, and the corrections are from scale drawings, but now after I had looked at pictures of the real thing I would not probably done the 'oval thing' corrections on top of the wing (last picture from here) anymore, as I'm not too sure about those anymore (although they are in every scale drawing I have found). The most annoying to my eye is (forth picture from here)panel which I removed and rescribed. Others are made so that I could make some life to monotonous surface. I think that some of those panel lines drawn to scale drawings are just rivets, so you don't have to do all that are shown in those. And as I said before the panel lines are drawn in different places in different drawings. If I would make panel lines according to scale drawings I would use Tim McLellands book as it seems to make most sense according to my research.. But I would like to see lightning in real life to make real claims.
 
As I have never done fully metal finish aircraft (after I started modelling again), that seems overwhelming after I have studied pictures of real aircraft. Some variations between some panels, not too shiny, but not too dull.. Let's see how I cope with natural metal finish.

[Bottom_first_aluminium-800] 
The first color to put on the planes is aluminum, I use Alclad colors as all my old Humbroll paints are dried and Alclads have behaved nicely on exhausts, landing gear struts etc. Here is perhaps one of the last things that this double build has advantage, I can spray these at the same time. (The first was about at the base color time...)
 
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #110 
wow--the metal paints are spectacular. I am dying to see the finals on both planes. The schemes you have described are going to be really really nice. good luck as you continue--what a load of work you have under your belt!!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #111 
TedUSA: I like Alclad paints too, the particle size is small enough for scale models and they are ready to use right out of bottle. I liked Humbrol metal cote paints too, but they have dried up..

[Bottom_first_masking-800] 
Alclad Aluminum ALC100 revealed problems with F.2A:s (new) surface. Perhaps from black base (as it had dried from top and I had to peel the dried paint away from bottle, some residue could have dropped to the fresh paint?) there were little imperfections which were highlighted with aluminum. So I had to sand it smooth (they can be seen as black in picture). I used different width Tamiya tape to mask panels (of course I had to mask panels I had done..).


Luckily I didn't like that kind of shiny look, so I masked the panels which were good and places which were imperfections were smoothed. Alclad dull aluminum ALC117 was used to paint the next layer.

[First_masking_bottom-800]  
I used surgical paper tape and Tamiya tape to mask top side.

[first_masking_top-800] 
I painted F.3 (old) after F.2A and in F.3 there were no such imperfections as in previously painted one. Some very light scratches were found but as I think that real planes were more dull aluminum than bright at least from bottom side. I masked some panels quite evenly on both sides so that I hope gives nice result. I used surgical paper tape and Tamiya tape to mask bottom side. 'Surgical paper tape' is good as you can see panel lines easily and cut with hobby knife along those lines.  Alclad dull aluminum ALC117 was used to paint the second layer.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #112 
I used the paper tape at work in the hospital years ago---its best for people with allergy to other tapes. Did not think of it for hobby use---good idea--translucent.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #113 
TedUSA: I didn't know those are for people that have allergy to tapes, now I have learned this.

[Bottom_second_maskinng-800]
F.2A (new) masked.
[Second_masking_Elevators-800] 
Again F.2A elevators masked with paper tape.

[Second_masking_bottom-800] 
F.3 (old) bottom masking 

[Second_masking_top-800] 
Top masking.

Third color is dull aluminium. I masked everything with M3 blue tape and paper tape for same reasons as before.. There is some cutting needed for blue tape too but paper tape is used in places that needs more complicated maskings.
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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #114 
After I removed all the maskings from F.3 (old) some corrections is needed:

[Touch_up_1_text-800] 
F.2A is masked before green paint:
[Bottom_masking_for_green-800] 
Bottom

[Top_masking_for_geen-800] 
And top side needs also little bit of masking (MrMasking sol) for air brakes..
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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #115 
[Bottom_green_1-800]
First the green showed good, but then
[Bottom_error_masking_text-800] 
I had forgot to cut the mask in right underside..

[Top_green_1-800] 
Top was also painted with Tamiya Nato Green XF-67

[Top_green_2-800] 
Paint was lightened with Tamiya Yellow Green XF-4 as you have to lighten green with yellow as if you lighten it with white the color changes more to gray than light green/yellow. All the panel centers were lightly painted with tinted paint. I think that this is better way to have some difference in dark paint than pre-shading as dark color easily covers totally the pre-shading.
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srp71

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Reply with quote  #116 
she is coming on nicely. Keep up the good work. 
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Thatmas

Flight Sergeant
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Reply with quote  #117 
srp71: Thanks! Old ** has been kicking back, but the younger one is therapy..


[Bottom_metal-800] 
F.3 (old) got its corrections done, but bottom side looked little bland.
[Bottom_stripes-800] 
In F.3 I decided to make tome stripes to mimic rivets/spars that can be shown in some planes, lets see how they are done like this. The landing gear doors are also painted with F.2A doors acting like masks.

[Bottom_masks_off-800]
F.2A (new) is going to look like something I meant ..  

[Correction__masking_left-800]  [Correction__masking_right-800] 
but some paint was peeled out with masking, and some overspill places were found and some points that the masking wouldn't have been spot on, so I did some new maskings... and masked nose ring and afterburner section at the same time.
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srp71

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Reply with quote  #118 
Great looking natural metal work. Love the different tones. 
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #119 
that panel work is inspiring, beautiful. with metal paints, do you have to clear coat the kit before applying masking? you had some paint pulled up when you removed masking? just wondering. I have never used metal paints before and don't know the "rules"
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

Flight Sergeant
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Posts: 322
Reply with quote  #120 
srp71: I'm glad it pleases you. I'm happy with F.2A metal parts, but F.3 has so much (all) metal so I have to look it again when I'm otherwise done painting with that. Normally my building/painting stage lasts so long that I have time to look it with new eyes as I feel I get blinded to my own work when you just do it.
 
TedUSA: I don't know the rules, except the one that says no clear cote at all, not even before/after decaling as it could make paint less natural looking. I try to make as small amounts of layers as possible with paint/clear cote as I tend to have something under a paint layer. Sometimes I clear cote before masking but not in this case (the blue tape just had too much grip although I did stick it to my desk/hand before attaching it to the model). As I haven't done wholly metal color aircraft I have always painted different shades without clear coating in between, and although in both cases some corrections were needed I wouldn't do it differently. But it is mater of taste.

[Bottom_metal_done-800] 
F.3 (old) got its corrections done, so the next thing is to paint the spine and tail. Picture doesn't give credit to brighter parts 'rivets', but I'm pleased with subtle result.

[Top_bagmasking-800] 
To prevent overspill the other parts have to be covered. There is always a change that tape rips off some paint (as there already happened) I decided to use kitchen 'Saran Wrap' to cover the whole aircraft. I used tape only where absolute needed.

[Top_painted_white-800] 
As the checker board is red/white I decided to paint with Alclad base white on bottom so that it would look consistent through the special paint scheme. 

[Top_decal_color-800] 
Decals were little yellowish, or at least differed from my base color..


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