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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #121 
thanks for discussing different techniques with metal paints. I have zero experience with them on a whole aircraft. I keep going back and looking at the panel work--it is absolutely beautiful art! NOW you are going to add the fantastic decals!
its pure excitement in my book. best of all? YOU ARE DOING ALL THE WORK and I get to watch!! Here again, all the detail...........................in 1/72 scale............amazing, simply amazing.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #122 
TedUSA: You are too kind! Lets see how I mess this F.3 around.. [I myself was quite pleased too with F.2A (new) added panel lines as there is always danger that they are different width etc. than mold maker ones, I really had to remember which I had made]. This F.3 (old) wholly metal paint leaved some itching and I think I'll do some more metal painting exercises on my next build..
 
As there is plenty of time (?) I decided to paint the checker board to tail. I haven't done this kind of painting before, but I think I'll give it a try as the decal didn't match my white or red I intended to use. The spine would have to been painted red anyway and there would have been some transition between spine and these old models are for testing new things aren't they?

   [Measuring-800] 
Firstly I took measurement from decals square height (0,7mm) and cut stripes out from blue tape and taped them into tail. I taped first stripe to bottom of the tail. Then I had to have space between tapes right, so I cut one square and put it to start and end point so that I could tape next vertical strip. I continued this way all way to the top.

  [Tail_first_try-800]
But it seemed that it would be too small and not reach the top at all. I measured decal again but it seemed the same. I wonder what had happened if I had used decal?
[Tail_first_masking_left-800]
I had to do all over, now I cut stripes a hair wider..

[Tail_first_masking_right-800] 
And same procedure for other side..

[Tail_first_red-800] 
Then spine tail is painted red for the first time. BTW. This is not THE right thing to do checker board masking.. but it's my first time.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #123 
I'm watching as if you have done the techniques a hundred times. I don't know any different. can't wait to see the checkerboard paint!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #124 
TedUSA: I did ready made squares to separate lines as you should only do lines, but I was unsure about the places in that way, so I did some work for wain.

[Tail_second_masking_left-800] 
Not too surprisingly now it's second time to mask squares as there isn't squares (unless you count those that I mentioned before) just white/red lines. I used same tapes for this masking, just in different places so that the squares would be symmetrical.

[Tail_second_masking_right-800] 
Both sides get same treatment.
 
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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #125 
Checkerboard didn't quite work:

Some small color bleed was found and one red square was missing..

[Tail_masks_removed_left_1-800] 
I tried to get the excess paint off with cotton swab and thinner, but it was impossible to get strait edges, or to get near enough. And some paint was pulled from one of white squares.

[Tail_masks_removed_right_1-800] 
Same thing on another side but things were much worse, disappointing.. 

[Tail_third_masking_left-800] 
Red squares were otherwise ok, so I decided that I masked the red ones and paint white again.

[Tail_third_masking_right-800] 
And the other side receives naturally the same treatment. This time masking was done as these patterns should be done..
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #126 
isn't it ironic that a "painter's tape" fails to completely mask the area?? bummer. its going to be ok in the end however, i have spoken it, let it be so!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #127 
TedUSA: Yes its ironic, but perhaps it is result from tacking it too many times to board/to my hand to prevent pulling paint off with tape.

Nothing interesting today, just corrections:

[Tail_fourth_masking_left-800] 
I re-used tapes again for the same reason than before.

[Tail_fourth_masking_right-800] 
I have feeling that I have done this before...

btw: I used Alclad white primer once again to ensure coverage.

[Correction_to_correction-800] 
F.2A needed also correction, last time I had painted corrections with wrong color (XF-26), it didn't look too cool although it had very small color difference (XF-66/XF-26), you can see it in picture. I had to correct that too.
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Thatmas

Flight Sergeant
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Reply with quote  #128 
Before maskings were removed black is painted to cockpit/forward fuselage.

[Cockpit_black-800] 
Some synergy in painting. I used about 50/50 mix of  Tamiya X-1 and XF-85.

[Fuselage_left_tail_ready-800] 
Now, this second time checkerboard seemed to work out, here is whole aircrafts port side

[Fuselage_right_tail_ready-800] 
Starboard side looks ok too if you look at checkerboard tail.

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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #129 
Good result on the checkers in the end ! It's not and easy job to mask up, looks very nice against the metal finish

Pete
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #130 
great work and its looking really spot on!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #131 
Thanks for comments! I really had to do that checerboard paint scheme after I saw it on Tim McLellands book cover, it is quite striking. Pity that it only lived for a year back then.

[Gun_ports-800] 
F.2A (new) needed only paint for upper gunports (which were the only one installed as I intended to put missiles on). I painted those with Tamiya red and Nato green. These should be in natural metal but those were painted with protective coat which was brick colored. I considered to paint gun ports with natural metal and do this coat in weathering stage but this is much easier..
 
Now I have had enough from painting. Next some pictures of these planes side by side before decaling:
 
 
As F.3 (old) still needs some corrections, I decal F.2 before I continue with painting.

[_decals_all-800] 
All decals from F.2A decalsheet and all from Xtradecal decalsheet. 1€ is for size reference. I'll like decalling...

[Aircraft+decals-800] 
F.2A painted with decals to apply (one of required pictures?). Fortunately there is some duplicate decals in which case I decide individually which one I use. 

Some comparison pictures before decals:
[Compare_painted_bottom-800]  [Compare_painted_top-800]  [Compare_painted_right-800] 
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srp71

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Reply with quote  #132 
Nice save with the checkers.  Both aircraft look great.
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Best Wishes. Simon.(srp71)
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #133 
wowww. to see both kits together and all painted up is fantastic. I knew it was going to be good but its much better than I could imagine. bravo!!! decal work? those sheet look intimidating to me. especially all the tiny stencils and lines. each step in a build/finish almost seems like playing some type of computer/video game. the challenge is to "beat" each step/level and onto the next! best wishes with the decals!!!!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Thatmas

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Reply with quote  #134 
 
 
srp71: I felt very disappointed after first try, and regretted that I decided to paint those squares. But where is the fun if you start to take shortcuts in middle? If it would have failed second time I don't know what I would have done, perhaps continued with the new one..
 
TedUSA: All of the lines are duplicate, and most of the stencils as Airfix has done good job providing lots of stencils. I acquired these Xtradecals mainly to F.3 as Modecal doesn't give too much of these small texts. F.3 (old) really feels like challenge sometimes (often), but showing it here perhaps helps to get it done properly after all.
 
I prefer start decaling from bottom to test how the decals work. If something goes wrong it doesn't show right away in display cabinet as it is underside. There are some stencils that are duplicate and I decided to use mix of those, depending whose seems to be right.  Or in case that I can't figure it out which one is right I take one that pleases my eye more. 
 
[Decal_matt-800] 
For some reason Cartograph (supplied from the box) decals seemed to be somewhat 'matt' finish in they decals, this is shown somewhat in picture. (I had no this kind of issue with Cartograph decals provided with Academy F-8e..)

[Decal_cutted-800] 
Therefore I had to cut transparent parts off as much as I could without doing separate characters.
 
[Decaling_bottom-800] 
Decals are ready in underside..

Cartograph decals went on ok, but some extra MicroSol/Set is needed to get those conform panel lines. Xrtadecal decals were thin and extremely clear and they wouldn't even need MicroSol/Set.

[Compare_missiles_text-800] 
There is still one thing to compare between F.3 (old) and F.2A (new): Missiles are nicely two different types used in Lightnings. They still can be compared: once again new mold has Hawker Sidley Redtop missiles, which are done from four pieces and there is also clear part to missiles seeker head. In old mold there is  De Havilland Firestreak missiles done in one piece.
 
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #135 
gets more exciting with each post you make! GREAT idea to decal bottom first--simple and really smart!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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