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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #1 
I have never built a P-38 before so I thought I would give this a go.

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These are the kit decals but I managed to get a better set from ebay.  

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As with a lot of Airfix kits of this era they loved their rivets and this kit is no difference, in fact there are that many rivets you could use the wing as heavy grit sand paper!  Also I think there will be a fair bit of re-scribing.

I started sanding the many rivets off and also started the re-scribing.

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And I opened up the rear of the radiator cowling's.

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I did this by drilling small holes around where the opening was going to be then I just joined the holes up with a sharp knife.  That done I just tided up the hole with a small diamond file.  I did this on all of the radiator cowling's and I finished the re-scribing on the four fuselage engine halves.  The bolt holes on the engine cowling's were made by using a pin scribe.

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Now for the wings.

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Them done I then attached the wing halves together.

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The centre fuselage was re-scribed and I glued the forward undercarriage cover in place.

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This is where I am going to drill a hole for the machine bolt for the stand.

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I filed the head of the bolt down just to make sure it didn't catch the cockpit tub.

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Then it was just a case of using super glue to join them together.

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As the bolt's job is to hold the P-38 to the stand I added a small amount of glue and then sprinkled a small amount of bicarbonate of soda over the glue.  The bicarb acts as an activator to the super glue and sets rock hard to give a more substantive joint. The thing you should to be aware of is that the chemical reaction between the glue and bicarb produces a small amount of heat.  It won't burn you but you can feel the plastic warm up a touch.  If this happens just wait for the plastic to cool down or even use cold water if you aren't sure.

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 To be continued............................

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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genessis-models

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Reply with quote  #2 
Great work mate I like your gluing, I also sorted out your last post [thumb]
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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks Bobby.  The cockpit didn't have a lot of detail in it and what it did I sanded off to start from scratch.  I drilled out the dials for the instrument panel and scribed a few lines.  The control column was made from scrap strips if plastic and bent copper wire.  Also I added a bit of detail to the rear of the cockpit as well.

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On the seat I bent a piece of copper wire to make part of the seat frame.

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I test fitted a fair few times just to makesure everything worked just to be on the safe side.  

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This one is to give you an idea of scale.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #4 
I can see how this is going to be a fine looking plane by the time you are done with it Ian. [smile]
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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks Michael.  Just finished painting the pilot and cockpit before fitting it to the fuselage.  I used Mr Hobby Cockpit Green for the base colour of the cockpit.  For the weathering I used a dark Vallejo wash.  The pilot was painted with Vallejo paints and Citadel washes.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #6 
Very nice and impressive detail painting!
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Fabian
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RossiM1

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Reply with quote  #7 
Fantastic work Ian the re-scribing has made an incredible difference, and the details you have made in the cockpit and the pilot are stunning and particularly given the scale.
Amazing cannot wait to see this develop mate.
Best wishes
Gary

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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #8 
Thanks Fabian and Gary for encouraging comments.  I have managed to do a fair bit today.  I have attached the cockpit to the central fuselage, attached both the engine booms and wings, built the nose, added the tail and installed the landing light.  Here are a few photo's.

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I could have dropped the landing light from the kit straight into the wing but I decided to line the hole with white plasticard.

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Next I cut the clear part from the sprue and filed the sides down so it would just fit into the gap in the wing.  I ensured that the light would be just proud of the wing as I was going to sand it flush with the wing when the glue has gone off but just before I fitted the light I drilled a small hole into the back of the light about half to look like a bulb.  That done I added a few touch of PVA glue in the gap and pushed the light into the gap.  As I have said I waited for the glue to go off, then I sanded the light flush with the wing and buffed it clear.  I didn't paint the back of the light silver as you don't need it because the white plasticard at the back of the clear part gives a mirror effect like a real light reflector.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #9 
Ian, this kit has brought back so many memories.

I love what you've done to it.

An old classic retro revival....brilliant. [thumb]
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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks Nigel.  With this being an old kit I was going to use a vacform canopy from Falcon.  I already had the pack that carried the canopy for the P-38F as bought it a few years ago when I was building the Revell 1/72 Bearcat.  Then I changed my mind about using the Falcon canopy and decided to show you my new gizmo.  I like building old kits (I must be mad) and sometimes its a right pain to get replacement canopy's if the kit one is damaged so I talked my wife into letting me buy a dental vacuformer to make my own.  Anyway here it is.  The top with the triangle on it is the heating element and the bottom bit holds the vacuum and the switches.

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This is the tray that holds the patterns.

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This is the clamp that holds the PETG plastic sheet.

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I placed the patterns or original canopy's on the tray.  The P-38F canopy is at the top and the others are just from the spares box.  I have stuck white tac in the canopy's to give them a bit of support and also to raise the canopy's off the tray.  This is to allow the plastic to nearly completely cover the canopy.  The Viking canopy (with the black paint on) I have allowed one side to touch the bottom of the tray.  You will see why later on.

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With my sheet of plastic in the clamp I turn on the heating element by pressing the "Heat" switch.  I haven't put the tray containing the canopy's on yet because the heater will melt the originals while you are warming up the plastic sheet.  I speak from experience on this one as my common sense had a day off.  Use the lever on the right to raise the clamp nearer the heater.  Adjusting the gap speeds or slows the warming of the plastic.  When the plastic sheet starts to sag I then place the tray on the machine, turn on the vacuum by pressing the "Model" switch, turn off the heater and I lower the clamp all the way down using the lever on the right.

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I then move the heating element out of the way by pushing it to the right with a screwdriver, etc but not my hand as it is really HOT!  I then turn off the vacuum and give it about 30 seconds to cool.

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I then open the clamp and take out the canopy's.

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I have found that if you don't have the canopy slightly raised off the tray this happens.

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Now it just a case of carefully removing the original from the copy and tidying up the new canopy.

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Here is the kit canopy dry fitted.

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Now for the new canopy.

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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srp71

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Reply with quote  #11 
Nice work with the canopy. Looking good. 
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AdamSzendrei

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Reply with quote  #12 
Wow! Super cool! Defenatly on a bucket list of modelling tools to get. Was the price reasonable?
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ianprice

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Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks chaps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSzendrei
Wow! Super cool! Defenatly on a bucket list of modelling tools to get. Was the price reasonable?


Adam it cost me £60 off ebay in the UK it may sound a lot but a canopy set off Falcon costs £13 plus p&p and they might not do the one you are after.  Someone else does do canopy's which cost in around £1.50 plus p&p each but again if they do the one you are after.  You can also use it to make copies of other parts like drop tank halves, etc and styrene sheet but I have not tried it yet.  I hope this helps. 

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Ian

To see more photo's have a look on my Flickr page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ecirpnai/albums
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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #14 
Wow! That made a big difference! Now you get to show off all that beautiful work you did with that pilot and cockpit. I want one lol!
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AdamSzendrei

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Reply with quote  #15 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ianprice
Thanks chaps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamSzendrei
Wow! Super cool! Defenatly on a bucket list of modelling tools to get. Was the price reasonable?


Adam it cost me £60 off ebay in the UK it may sound a lot but a canopy set off Falcon costs £13 plus p&p and they might not do the one you are after.  Someone else does do canopy's which cost in around £1.50 plus p&p each but again if they do the one you are after.  You can also use it to make copies of other parts like drop tank halves, etc and styrene sheet but I have not tried it yet.  I hope this helps. 


Very helpful!! It's on my list now. Price is very reasonable
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