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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #31 

So, all the clear parts are masked.  Fiddley, and as mentioned before, the Montex masks are not the best, but they’re still easier than doing it all freehand with Tamiya tape.  As with most bombers, there’s a lot of windows everywhere.  The smaller ones I’ll fill in at the end with Micro Kristal Clear.

m_20191006_151535.jpg 

Before attaching the canopies though, there’s one small thing to fix that’s bugging me, and that’s the gappage around the bulkhead to fuselage join.  I know it won’t be seen, but if I don’t do something about it, it’ll be an itch I can’t scratch.

m_20191006_151648.jpg 

A little dab of Vallejo plastic putty and a touch-up with interior green made it all better.

First I fitted the smaller windows.  They’re not too clear in the pictures, but there’s one just behind the cockpit, a second one about midway along the fuselage, and, quite why the real aircraft had one there, a third one right in front of the tail-plane.  And all the kit's openings were, what’s the term, rhomboidal?  Trapezoid?  Well, they weren’t square, put it like that!  Then, when I did file them square, the clear parts had a habit of dropping through.

m_20191008_210140.jpg 

Still, perseverance finally saw them fitted with some Kristal Klear.

It was a similar story with the bigger windows at the back.  Not square and too small.  And again, why did the real thing have so much glass at the back and no guns there?

m_20191010_215428.jpg 

The worst fit of all, though, was the bombardier’s canopy sections.  Sitting reasonably flush to the rear, the forward section had an ugly great step.  The aiming panel, too, was terrible, with little in the way of correcting it.  I did what I could, though, with some limited filing with a small diamond file.

m_20191010_215436.jpg  m_20191010_215453.jpg 

And that join to the rear of the canopy… Ã°Å¸ËœÂ£

m_20191010_215503.jpg 

The main cockpit canopy, surprisingly, was better.  Granted, it too fitted where it touched, but it touched in more places than any of the other transparencies.  It only took some minor fettling to get a close enough fit that a smear of Kristal Klear could fill any small gaps.

m_20191010_215931.jpg  m_20191010_215940.jpg 

Next I started the painting with cockpit interior green over the canopies, so it showed through from the inside.  Remember that join?  Even worse than I feared.  Ghastly, looking like the Grand Canyon on a bright day.

m_20191011_081630.jpg 

There’s no way I can hide it completely, the best I can do is try to make it less noticeable.  I did this with Perfect Plastic Putty and a damp cotton bud.

m_20191011_160951.jpg 

Proof, if any were needed, that Montex masks really are cr*p!  I shall not be recommending them to my friends!

m_20191011_091758.jpg 

And, finally, we’re ready for primer.  Since the bigger part of this plane is black, I thought I’d try a different technique to the usual pre-shading.  I think it’s called black-basing?  I have had a bottle of Alclad II black primer and micro-filler for almost a year, but not yet used it, so I thought I’d give it a try.  At first, my airbrush ran for about five seconds before gunking up, but that was purely my fault for not cleaning it from the last use of acrylic paint.  Once stripped, meticulously cleaned and reassembled, it all went beautifully. 


m_20191011_164552.jpg 

The Alclad laid down very nicely, if also very smelly.  Guess who forgot to open the window, and consequentially stunk his whole house out?!

m_20191011_165628.jpg 

Tomorrow I’ll lay some Tamiya white in random marble-squiggles within the panel lines, before laying down the main colours.  I wonder how it’ll all look?


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #32 
I want to try the black basing when I finally finish my F4 Phantom. BRB--got to grab some more popcorn!!
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #33 

I have this week off work, so with a bit of luck and the wind in the right direction, I should have this build cracked off by the weekend, he said, hopefully!

So, to the top-coat, and to start I lightly drew out the colour demarcation lines in pencil, as I would never be able to do it freehand.

m_20191013_112905.jpg 

Then, using some recipes provided by fellow Florian, Peter Crimmin, I mixed up some Tamiya paints to the prescribed ratios.  I had to nip out to my local model shop to get some spare mixing glasses, as I had run out!

m_20191013_123848.jpg 

For the pre-shading, if that’s the correct term when black-basing, I elected on some paler versions of what would be the top colours, in this case XF-78 deck tan to go under the dark earth, and XF-4 yellow green to go under the dark green.

m_20191013_123906.jpg 

Laying down the random marbling.  No idea if I’m doing this right, but it’s kinda fun.

m_20191013_130541.jpg  m_20191013_163115.jpg 

I like that look just as it is!

For the underside I used XF-white.  Again the idea, as I believe, is to do random patches and squiggles, with varying intensities of cover.

m_20191013_171726.jpg  m_20191013_171733.jpg 

Next came masking.  Not my favourite job, as I always manage to bugger it up somewhere.  I either miss a bit of mask out, and end up with a colour where it shouldn’t be, or put tape in the wrong place, and get the opposite, no colour where it should have been.  Still, I concentrated real hard this time, so fingers crossed.  I used 1 mm fine tape for a hard edge, as I didn’t think a soft edge would look right in 1/72, and filled in the rest with Panzer Putty.  I used this stuff on my first couple of builds, then, for reasons I can’t remember, went over to using Tamiya tape.  But tape is non-reusable, whereas this stuff can be used over and again.  Great stuff, but weird…

m_20191013_200200.jpg 

Several light coats of the dark green mix later, and this is the result.  Not perfect, but hey, it’s my first attempt at this technique, and I have to say I’m pretty pleased with it.

m_20191013_201453.jpg  m_20191013_201512.jpg 

Masking off for a better look at the result.  A few places it could have done with a bit more top-coat, and in a few others the pre-shading is almost lost, but yeah, not too shabby for a first attempt, methinks.

m_20191013_204930.jpg 

Next step of masking, again with the 1 mm tape, but running it just inside the edge of the green area, to be certain there’s no thin, unpainted lines between the two colours.

m_20191014_104808.jpg 

As before, the gaps were covered with Panzer Putty, then the dark earth was laid down, in several light coats.  Again, the result is rather pleasing.

m_20191014_113205.jpg 

The top masking removed.

m_20191014_122449.jpg 

Finally, the undersides, using the same method as before.  And the look is just as I had hoped, a patchy, randomly faded and worn look.

m_20191014_143747.jpg  m_20191014_143754.jpg  m_20191014_143921.jpg 

With all the masking removed, and if I say it myself, I’m pretty chuffed with it!  Ã°Å¸ËœÅ 

m_20191014_165218.jpg  m_20191014_165239.jpg 

Tonight, I hope to get the invasion stripes done, then tomorrow, decaling and weathering.


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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #34 
Well... you must be proud with your incredible good paint job !!! You really inspire me ... Also love the stand you're using to put your aircraft on during the painting job ! GREAT !!!
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #35 
Thanks, Alain, you're very kind.  As for the stand, well, that's just something I twisted together myself out of some fine brass rod I bought at my local do-it-yourself store!
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #36 

As we know, invasion stripes were not painted with much thought or consideration to looks, accuracy or military precision, and I saw a technique somewhere, though I can’t remember where, about how to replicate the slap-dash way many of them were hastily applied.  Basically, you take a strip of masking tape, press down with a straight edge, in this case a steel rule, then tear it up.  This gives a nicely rough finish when using it to mask the stripes.

m_20191014_190027.jpg  m_20191014_190147.jpg 

Scale wise, each stripe works out at about 8mm, so the total area is about 40mm.  Using the specially prepared tape I masked of the main body of the stripes.

m_20191014_190608.jpg 

With everything else covered up, Tamiya XF-2 white, with a hint of sea grey, was applied.

m_20191014_195936.jpg 

Leaving everything in situ, further 4mm strips of tape were used to cover up the necessary white areas, then XF-85 rubber black was sprayed, to give a little contrast to the Nato black undersides,

m_20191014_220322.jpg 

Damn.  Ã°Å¸Ëœ Ã°Å¸ËœÂ¡  Now I am sorely pi**ed.  Ã°Å¸ËœÂ£

m_20191014_221604.jpg  m_20191014_221609.jpg  m_20191014_221651.jpg  m_20191014_221654.jpg 

Now I’m going to toss and turn all night, wondering how the heck I’m going to fix that mess.  Ã°Å¸ËœÂ°Ã°Å¸ËœÂ¢


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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #37 
Oooh... I would worry myself also. My first approach would be trying to fix it with a very small hand brush and diluted paint. Working in several layers and following the uneven line to keep the initial effect you desired. In fact it is not bad at all !!! I'm sure you can rectify easily the most visible leaks but the paint should be well diluted, the brush not too loaded and then applied in multiple thin layers.
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Reply with quote  #38 
Thanks, Alain, I was thinking along the lines of a hairbrush myself, see what can be done.  If not, I'll just have to mask it all off again and respray it.
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #39 
Yes, I'm sure the result will be awsome in the end !!!
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #40 
I have read were some of the stripes were painted on the planes with mops. Hmmmmm--have you been able to google any photos of "rough" stripes.
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #41 
Indeed, this here is the very aircraft I'm basing it on.  Presumably this shot was taken a few hours before D-day itself.  As you can see, the stripes are anything but neat!

Feb-15-7a.jpg 


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #42 
So.........keep what you have as the true look???
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Reply with quote  #43 

To me, it looks more real than horrible.  I bet their paint bled along the seam lines and panels. I bet with weathering you can blend them out.
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #44 
The slightly ragged edges looks more or less like the real thing, but that bleed-through, ugh, no, cant live with that.  It was my own fault.  After laying down the white I took a break while it dried and opened my e-mails to find one from my soon-to-be ex-wife's sister.  Apparently wifey wants to know what I'm going to do about a divorce settlement.  Reading between the lines she's looking to screw me for a chunk of my inheritance from dad.  That messed my head up, and I should have left it alone till I was in a better frame of mind, but no, I had to go and try and finish it, didn't I.  With mood at a low ebb, and concentration messed up I rushed it, and flooded the black on, instead of laying down several light coats, resulting in the horrendous bleed-through.  I have, however, managed to claw it back from the brink somewhat, to a point that's more acceptable to my own eyes at least.  New update to follow some time tomorrow.
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #45 

Well, I had a good think, and as a few others have suggested, decided to at first try to fix things with a hairbrush.  I did a small test piece at about 4.00 am, (told you I wouldn’t sleep!) and the results were promising, so once I was fully up and awake I went for it.  Using a Winsor & Newton no.3 brush, I carefully applied the same 50/50 mix of Tamiya XF-2 white/X20A thinners that I sprayed on last night.  And, guess what, it worked!  No visible brush marks, which kind of surprised me.

m_20191015_091323.jpg   

It did take several thin coats, as black is a real sod to cover, and especially with white, but I got there in the end.  Granted it’s not perfect, not by a long shot, but it’s a lot, lot better than it was last night.

m_20191015_091340.jpg 

I think the torn tape trick works fairly well, though it might be better suited to 1/48 or 1/32, but I have learned a lot from trying this, and it’s always good to learn something new, so next time I’ll try to do better.

So, back on track, I laid on some Klear, prior to decalling.

m_20191015_095540.jpg 

While that was drying I moved on to the keepem-uppers.  As you can see, there’s a bit of flash going on.

m_20191015_130050.jpg 

And one of the bracing struts has a bit missing out of the middle.  This I fixed while still on the runner, with a short piece of wire and some c.a.

m_20191015_130113.jpg 

Some whittling with a scalpel reduced the flash on the left, compared to the one on the right.

m_20191015_132602.jpg 

Each part was sprayed with AK aluminium, and the oleo's picked out with Molotow chrome, though the contrast doesn’t really show in the pics.

m_20191015_185238.jpg 

Main wheels came in two halves, with, as before, no means of locating the two together.  Surprisingly, though, they are weight-on.  The centres were also sprayed with AK aluminium, while the tires are AK rubber black.  I usually prefer the AK stuff to the Tamiya for tires, as, at least to me, it looks closer to the real shade.
m_20191015_185526.jpg 

Now to the decaling, and here Valom have made a boo-boo.  On the decal guide, as with the decals themselves, it shows the Sqn code as 8Z*A.

m_20191015_191126.jpg 

However, this photo of the real thing shows differently, as 8*ZA.

Feb-15-7a.jpg 

No biggie, just meant cutting one decal into two.

First decal on.  Nice and thin, though it didn’t like being manipulated around too much.  Had to be quick in positioning, before it stuck itself down.

m_20191015_191907.jpg 

And they went down real nice.  Just with some firm pressure from a cotton bud, and already they are sinking into the panel lines.

m_20191015_192212.jpg 

Half-way there, with the corrected unit codes.

m_20191015_193623.jpg 

And finished!

m_20191015_203119.jpg 

Before I climb the wooden hill tonight I’ll run a fresh scalpel blade over all the panel lines, then hit them once more with the micro-sol.  Then tomorrow it’ll be another Klear coat and some weathering.


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