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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #1 
Having watched Bob's video on how to use Mr Surfacer for minor gap filling I have used some on my Tamiya 1/48 spitfire I'm building. I used Rustins Cellulose thinner on a cotton bud to remove the excess and the plastic surface has melted and softened and distorted the surface detail. What have I done wrong??
I'm going to leave it to harden again then try to sand back and rescribe but I'm sure this is not supposed to happen.
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #2 
I'm pretty sure cellulose thinner melts plastic !!

Here I found a comment on Britmodeller

Screenshot_20191108-134904_Chrome.jpg 


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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #3 
Well I've proven it melts polystyrene beyond any reasonable doubt, but that's what Bob used in the video/tutorial.
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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #4 
Yep its melted through the palette I put some in and burned into my cutting mat. Should come with a health warning!
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #5 
The stuff is quite caustic in a matter of speaking. I have some on hand. A few drops will clear your Air Brush of stubborn paints of any kind. Many modelers put some in a glass container, drop in plastic sprue, and when it is melted to liquid, use it for filler. The stuff makes my nose go haywire!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #6 
Damage was localised so now its hardened back I've managed to sand it back but panel lines almost disappeared. I've ordered some Mr Color levelling thinner for future use. I used IPA on other areas when I realised the damage cellulose thinners was doing. it works but much more gently and needs a lot of rubbing to get it off.
Lesson learned
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbuck
Damage was localised so now its hardened back I've managed to sand it back but panel lines almost disappeared. I've ordered some Mr Color levelling thinner for future use. I used IPA on other areas when I realised the damage cellulose thinners was doing. it works but much more gently and needs a lot of rubbing to get it off.
Lesson learned


We all have spilled paint or glue or done something else that ruined models, modeling supplies, work surface, or "something" important or valuable. Working in a small area with chemistry is part of the challenge I guess. Better luck in the future!

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #8 
Yup, Rustins is very course, and not at all refined, as it's primary use is in the automotive industry.  Great for cleaning airbrushes, but not much else.
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geofftaylorswf

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Reply with quote  #9 
billbuck, I commiserate with you.

I once tried the same as you, but found the thinners a bit too aggressive and could feel the cotton bud dragging, so I never tried that again. Clearly it works, because Bob does it to great effect.

I do however use cellulose thinners sometimes for thinning enamel paints for airbrushing and also cleaning out my airbrush.

Not quite the same story as you, but I have just had paint problems on the same model, which was a shame as it is a lovely kit and up to that point it was going well.

Long story, short, I needed to strip the paint completely off the model. To which ends I brushed on IPA.

I was surprised to see that IPA strips Alclad 11 metal finishes and lacquer based paints such as AK Real Colors. I hadn't thought that it would touch them.The Xtracrylix which was the cause of the problem in the first place was the easiest to come off. It also, with a bit more agitation went through the AK Primer. 

This proved to me how aggressive IPA can be, but at least it doesn't attack the plastic.

The model is now all cleaned up, re-primed, repainted and back to where I was when disaster struck.

At these times it can be all to easy to consign the model to "the shelf of doom", but to pull it back from the brink and get it finished, gives one a real sense of achievement.

As an old workmate used to say "one day we will sit back and laugh about this". Doesn't feel like it at the time though does it?


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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #10 
Have to be philosophical and look on this as a learning curve as this was my first serious kit for over 40 years. Cant expect it to go as smoothly as I'd like.
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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #11 
I've found that DoT3 break fluid works well for soaking paint off of models with no damage to the styrene. Not sure how it works, but I wouldn't use it for anything else besides break resivoirs.

Good for removing old finishes and washes off with Dawn.

Otherwise, stick with less caustic chemicals.
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billbuck

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Reply with quote  #12 
Brake fluid will also take the paint off your car if spilt and not wiped off promptly.
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #13 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbuck
Brake fluid will also take the paint off your car if spilt and not wiped off promptly.


Yup, I can testify to that.  I was bleeding the brakes on my car many years ago, and knocked the bottle of brake fluid over the wing.  Only a small amount but it left a permanent scar in the paint.

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