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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #46 
Thanks guys. I had a serious brain fart! must have been Alien influence--LOL. I will "drop back and punt" and then get Satan going again. The ISO made some of the paint areas irregular so I will need to remove it to get back what I had in previous images. Simon, I do plan to make the red "skin" of the figure a semi-gloss or gloss, and the horns will be matt. I am going to finish the horns to look like a mountain sheep--tan/browns/dark washes, then a matt over coat. I thought about black shiny horns and that looks great with the long, smooth horns on other figures, but I think that the irregular horns on my Satan need to look like the sheep horn.

This is one of the ref pictures I have archived for the horn finish I think I like:


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #47 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nigel56
Sorry to see that Ted. Stick to water based Acrlics or inks for washes. Pastels goood...ISO baaad. Simon why not go for different varnishes for different parts of the model. Ted could do high gloss for the eyes, skin in satin, and matt for the horns. I'm even thinking of drybrushing different varnishes on a project I'm currently doing, not that the varnish will be dry on the brush more of a highlightbrushthingy. Feel free to check it out should have it finished today.


Nigel, good ideas from you and Simon both. thanks very much. I have looked at a lot of "figure painting" online and here on Genessis. Problem is, Satan is different from most of the figure painting I look at. Other than a wash over the red, how do I approach highlighting his "high" points as in "further away darker, closer lighter" or in other words, creating the lighting effects I saw in some "light test" pictures I posted a while back. Not sure what to mix with the red to highlight it without coming up with a strange color. I was thinking that maybe the dark wash for the crevices,eye areas, underneath areas, etc. would get me where I wanted to go??

The dry brushing is a great idea but what color? thanks

I actually just went back to the 1st page of the WIP thread and saw the hints you guys gave me in the beginning. I should have reviewed the entire thread before just picking up where I left off months ago when mom passed and I had to move, etc. oh well.......such is my humanity showing itself again! won't be the last time.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #48 
Okay Ted, hi hope you are well.

So base colour red...do not use black or white for highlighting and shadding! I would suggest light greys (less dominant ), highlights for drybrushing be bold and use orange and then yellow for fine line highlight. Take your original red base colour and create a thin wash. Wash the whole area to blend .

Not sure how you intend to do the eyes. If, and only if, this was my model i would paint the eye sockets bright yellow with dark green slits like a reptile with a black iris line.....It's Satan anything goes (purple is out...only the Osmonds like that colour!)....but then again....no!
For references check snakes eyes on google (ignoring the references to dice) [wink]
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #49 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nigel56
Okay Ted, hi hope you are well. So base colour red...do not use black or white for highlighting and shadding! I would suggest light greys (less dominant ), highlights for drybrushing be bold and use orange and then yellow for fine line highlight. Take your original red base colour and create a thin wash. Wash the whole area to blend . Not sure how you intend to do the eyes. If, and only if, this was my model i would paint the eye sockets bright yellow with dark green slits like a reptile with a black iris line.....It's Satan anything goes (purple is out...only the Osmonds like that colour!)....but then again....no! For references check snakes eyes on google (ignoring the references to dice) [wink]


that is what I needed to know in terms of colors Nigel---thank you very much.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #50 
Used ISO, a broad old brush, and q-tips to clean off the mess I made yesterday. I stayed away from the horns as much as possible---I was afraid that the ISO would remove the liquid masking [?]





after the cleaning I gave Satan plenty of time to dry, then AB him with Tamiya XF-1 black.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
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Toki

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Reply with quote  #51 
Ted 

Have you considered using zenith highlight and shading technique?
I would also recommend using blues and dark greens in the shade for a more natural colour

Stephen  

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #52 
Wow. Zenith highlighting....now you are talking. If done correctly it is quite a stuning technique. Although the principle is easy to understand you could get lost on a complex model.

Basically Ted it's using a light source that is directly above, but you must take into consideration anything that protrudes out from the model will actually produce a shadow on the model itself.

I've seen someone do this and believe it or not they used a mirror held at 45 degs above the model. This gives you a bird's eye view of the figure. Anything you see from that view point is highlighted, all the rest is shadow.

But it doesn't stop there, what happens if you widen the light source...or the light source comes from a burning torch that the model is carrying...

Correct me if I'm wrong here Stephen, please.
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Toki

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Reply with quote  #53 
Yes sort of zenith highlighting is usually done by spraying a dark colour from below and a mid tone from 45 degrees from top of model followed by a white or near white tone from directly above this is them glazed over with colours to give desired effect (this is a very basic description I will find some better ones and post links).
OSL ( origin sourced lighting) is a highlighting version of this this done from a light source picked by painter ( often seem on models holding touches) and is usually done after figures basecoats are done.

Stephen

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #54 
That's a good technique, must give that a try. That seems a simpler method, basically using the AB as the light source. ..impressive.

OSL , stuning when done correctly....here's a good example...


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Toki

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Reply with quote  #55 
I use zenith highlighting a lot these days (at some point in near future I will get round to doing some more miniatures)

Some links to better descriptions 

 (by far simplest explanation and shortest) 

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/tutorial-light-and-shadow.html

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.co.uk/2010/08/tutorial-zenithal-lightning-work-order.html

Ted with your background a lot of the theory stuff is probably well know to you but hope this helps explain what I mean.  

Stephen 

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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #56 
Son of a gun! That's what I've been doing! Zenith highlighting. Need to remember that!
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #57 
alright...alright...alright!! fantastic. I was just looking at a video series about this recently!! When I AB some red on today I did not saturate Satan as I did the last time. You guys are giving me some great options and direction. THANKS EVERYONE! I actually did a lot of this kind of photo shop work on images when I was editing model shots, particularly alternative shoots. Here is an extreme example. shot taken from a ladder overhead, all studio light from overhead, photo shop enhances top light.



this technique is something i can relate to and go forward with.Actually,when I went back and reviewed the entire WIP, it was Nigel who recommended that I use top down and then bottom up lighting to "see" how to shade Satan. Those lighting images are in the earlier part of this WIP thread.

T H A N K S   G U Y S   !!!

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #58 
Satan today:


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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #59 
Okay, from here on in Ted all you have to do next time is start with an overall shadow base color (a dark burgundy would've been a splendid place to begin here) and then lighten it up for you mids and highlights. Stay between 0 and 30 degrees to get this effect to work right. And to cheat a bit as I've been doing mix 10% white into 90% clear and just spray directly down in a very fine mist. That will bring up your highlights exactly where they should be without changing your colors entirely.

You've got this!!  [biggrin][biggrin][biggrin][biggrin]
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #60 
Mike, thanks! all these tips and techniques are really invaluable. I'm going to try to take my time and "think" before I jump. I may need to round up some more colors before forging ahead. thanks again!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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