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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
"... If there was a way to get perfectly settled decals on a matt finish we would all be doing it...." indeed. he might be blowing a bit of smoke?

I am rubbing my chin and thinking about what Gra posted re: adding a bit of gloss varnish to primary paints. definitely worth a try. it would eliminate a step?


Yes Graham's tip on adding a drop of varnish is a good one ! Xtracrylics are all gloss straight out of the bottle
And Gunze mr hobby are semi gloss, but the colours don't look right until the final matt coat goes on. If the decals behave themselves I reckon you could skip the Kleer ! Its got me wondering now if I could add some Kleer to the paint to make it semi gloss, I might have to give it a try. If I feel better tomorrow I will have a bit of an experiment

Pete
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Whizzo

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Reply with quote  #17 
Guys:

Just a quick note to answer Ted's question from his recent post.

I would say I was able to recover about 85% of the way. Pete's sage advice was invaluable. Another coat of Pledge/Klear took care of the white stain on the starboard wing beautifully. As for the silvered decals it looks like a liberal application of the MicroSol will take care of most of this.

For the record it looks like I inadvertently did a bit of an experiment over the last couple of days. I did some work around the gun bay door on the port forward fuselage that necessitated some quick brush touch ups of the dark green paint (Testor's Acryl). It sat for a couple of days in the garage here in Texas at temperatures in the 90s (about 32 C for my metric countrymen in Canada and Friends in the rest of the civilized world [smile]).

I applied a decal to this area without laying down a layer of Pledge/Klear and wouldn't you know it a white stain appeared right where the MicroSol was sitting! It looks like the problem is a reaction between the paint and the MicroSol even after 2 days of drying at warmish temperatures. I applied some additional decals to other areas using MicroSol without any problems so I can only assume that the paint needs something like a week to dry and cure properly! A little longer than I was expecting.

Just wanted to thank everyone for their comments and help. As Ted said in an earlier post this was an education for everyone.

Now on to the CF-5 that's on the bench!

Fred

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CF-18 Reference On the bench are an Airfix Sea Harrier FRS.1 then an Airfix CT-155 Hawk trainer (Hawk MK 115). All in 1/48.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #18 
Fred,
thanks for the update and the info about what you observed. that kind of "research" really helps. I think I had exactly the same problem with my first build. I was expecting everything to dry completely in 24-48 hours and now I have a different feeling. I am waiting longer--kills me that close to the end of a build but what else can you do? I've also got to have a closer look at Bob's paint drying box.

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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Gr4h4m

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Reply with quote  #19 
Like my old grandpa used to say " You wont find out til you try it "
It is acrylic varnish ,it does everything klear does its just a bit cheaper, yes you can buff klear, 
Just a small amount in paint,you will hardly notice a sheen but the finish will be smoother
Gra
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gr4h4m
Like my old grandpa used to say " You wont find out til you try it "
It is acrylic varnish ,it does everything klear does its just a bit cheaper, yes you can buff klear, 
Just a small amount in paint,you will hardly notice a sheen but the finish will be smoother
Gra


we must try it!

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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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