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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #16 
Thanks lads.

Well I got the clean intakes on, and guess what...you still can't get away from them with a fault. Think because it is such a basic model that I didn't think there would be a problem.

Nige's Rule No. 18. Never trust basic. [smile]


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #17 
I was pleased that the wheel well doors are all in one and you have to cut them to have them open. What a simple idea, means I don't need to mask off the wheel well and I can spray directly over them. I have them held in with good old blu tak. I also know about the bad join with the cockpit and body, should have taped it when I left the glue to dry.



I managed to find a better idea of the cammo patern I shall be doing (the one left)



The quality is not great but I noticed something very strange about the underside of the Phantom, any takers as to what is so strange?
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #18 
something looks funny about the intakes from the bottom? no separation of the intakes from the fuselage?

I don't know if you guys saw the message box that popped up where I posted the image of the other modelers kit build in the forum here?
He posted images that COULD be copied and pasted, but has put a system in place to prevent the images from actually being
used. I took the box down. I guessed wrong about what Nigel was posting anyway.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #19 
Hi Ted,

Omg, I didn't spot that one, cheers [thumb]

It's the camouflage on the colour sheet. It's EXACTLY the same as the topside. It even has a false cockpit. The cockpit on the underside is actually on the decal sheet in the bottom left hand corner. What I can't understand is why would you want to do that? I've been unable to find any reference to explain it, but if some one has a logical idea, or have already come across something like this before, I would love to know.

I'm also going to take a leaf out of your book, and have this in mid-flight, for 2 reasons. Firstly I want to show that false cockpit, and more importantly I don't think the landing gear would last very long (they are so thin). If I could buy an after market item it would be white metal, or resin landing gear, but alas I said I would not do that. They would probably cost the same amount as the actual model kit [biggrin]
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #20 
The false canopy is to confuse the opposition if your plane is inverted, those few seconds could give you a chance to fight or flight
It's coming together really quickly now, and I love the camo scheme it's very striking ! What colours are required for it ?

Pete
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #21 
sheesh, I totally did not notice that the question about what was "odd" concerned the decals!!! LOL. Pete is right of course. first time I saw that it boggled my feeble brain cell. Reminds me i have to order some clear acrylic rod. I can get the brass at the hobby shop close to the apartment.
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #22 
Ted,

If you are having trouble getting the clear rod then try this site, http://www.plastruct.com .

They also do a full catalogue download, or section by section.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #23 
Pete,

Going to use Sea Blue, Dark Gull Grey, Light Ghost Grey, and Gull Grey. That's the order from wing tip to wing tip, and I just happen to have these Tamiya colours in my stock. I will have to get the X 20A Thinners so I can use my airbrush and work from light to dark.

I've done my base and done a dry test of the Phantom attached to it, so as to get the centre of balance correct. I'm setting it in a climbing and banking pose so you get a good view above and below the model.

I'm not showing that until the final reveal, sorry [biggrin]
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nigel56
Pete,

Going to use Sea Blue, Dark Gull Grey, Light Ghost Grey, and Gull Grey. That's the order from wing tip to wing tip, and I just happen to have these Tamiya colours in my stock. I will have to get the X 20A Thinners so I can use my airbrush and work from light to dark.

I've done my base and done a dry test of the Phantom attached to it, so as to get the centre of balance correct. I'm setting it in a climbing and banking pose so you get a good view above and below the model.

I'm not showing that until the final reveal, sorry [biggrin]


It's a very nice looking camo scheme, and setting it in flight is great idea to show the underside, I do like planes with a false canopy, I'm looking forward to this, it will make quite a stunning display piece I reckon

Pete
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quinaultkings

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Reply with quote  #25 
Great ideas Nigel...two canopies though???? Whatever next????

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Current Build: 1/48 Revell F14D Tomcat
Current Build: Revell 1/48 ME410 Hornisse
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #26 
Andy, crazy idea to have two actual canopies, I like it.

The false canopy is actually just a decal. Sounds like Pete got the right idea about the reason for having that marking.
The F 4S was about the last version that they did. It had new smokless engines, much faster and because of the front slats on the wing it could manoeuvre quicker. It was about speed and deception.

It was talking about the mirror base, pete, that gave me the idea to show top & bottom.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #27 
Considering the scale, I'm happy with the crew. Had to move their heads around as they are doing a tight banking/climb.




Well, they look okay under glass, that's all that matters. There will be loads more to distract the eye.



Thanks for looking, more later as it progresses.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #28 
I think that everything is looking great in 1/72. The long shot of the crew really looks good--good facial colors, natural looking--especially the shadow down over their eyes. great job!

thanks for that link to plastruct.The shop close to my house has all kinds of plastruct product except for..........................acrylic rod. he carries everything for railroad mostly.
FYI--I called plastruct in Los Angeles and ordered the acrylic rod. I wanted 5/8" diameter and the shortest length is 17" [kind of an odd length?]. Minimum order is $20US so I had to order 2 each @ $11US. then their ground shipping is $9 = $31US for the order.when it arrives I can go to the local shop and get the brass I will need. getting my Phantom in the air is not a cheap deal, but nothing local that I could lay hands on. most people did not have any idea of what an acrylic rod is.

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #29 
I can believe that Ted.

I was looking for a clear fluorescent green colour for my Necrons as power tubes. No one had any idea what I was talking about. As you have experienced I had to up the order to the min order, so I got green, red, and blue. I should have got just clear for times like this. Managed to find a small amount which works well.

Your build is really coming along, and nice to see your photo and model on the show.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #30 
thank you Nigel. I have used a mix of food coloring and pledge to color clear parts before, wonder if it would work on acrylic rod? I used it on a canopy and it worked very well. I had to use a LOT of food coloring to get a "tint". the mix was very dark but was perfect on the canopy. finally an experiment that worked.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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