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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #1 
I have just received my package of Friulmodels ATL 101 for the 1/35 BMT CChieftain.



It is some weight and inside are two sets of cast metal track links, one for the left track, the other for the right. You also get a vey brief note on how to construct them, but it is nor needed. You also get a roll of brass wire, which will be used as the pivot between links.

For this model you get two bags of 100 links and they look impressive.



To construct the tracks will require a micro drill, a good pair of cutters, superglue (here I'm using gel), the links, brass wire (do not unroll this), a clean area and loads of patience and time - so put on that cool album you haven't played for years.



The drill bit I am going to use will be 0.55, so when using it DO NOT sneeze....it will break, trust me on this.


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #2 
Part 2


The object of the game is to link two links together using wire. It is much easier to handle the wire whilst it is in a loop, there will be less chance of losing bits of wire, and if you have very short fingernails you will be playing pick me up for the rest of the week.








The last pic is showing the small section I did on my old Chieftain's drive wheel. A very comfortable fit.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #3 
Part 3

I have put together, with what I've found to be a good quick method of construction.

Step 1
Hold the new link in place and check fit (they all fit so well).



Step 2
Whilst holding them drill through the pre-made holes, but do not go all the way through. This takes away any bur from casting and lines the holes up perfectly.



Step 3
Insert the wire all the way in, you will see now why it's a good idea to keep the wire in the loop.



Step 4
Snip off the wire, leaving some extra. Make sure the wire is in all the way. You could also check the join and that the links move freely.



Step 5
With a cocktail stick apply a small amount of glue to the base of the protuding wire. The reason I chose to use Gel is because capillary action cannot take place.



Step 6
Once superglue is dry snip the excess wire away.



Step 7
Repeat 199 times [thumb]

Conclusion.

A wonderful set of tracks that work. Once painted if they get chipped you will get bare metal, nice. You must develop a system and have a lot of time and patience (that section in my hand in Step 6 took me approx 20 mins. At that rate you could complete the whole lot in 2 hrs (not recommended if you want to keep your mojo intact).

What does go against the kit is the price. I would suggest shopping around and don't forget that extra p&p due to the weight.
Is it worth the price ? Well I have to say...yes. Tracks that look heavy, sag where they are supposed to sag, and add that weight to the tank model.

[thumb] [thumb] [thumb] [thumb] [thumb] a full 5 out of 5.

Thank you.
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SimonD

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Reply with quote  #4 
Nice one Nigel, I was thinking as I was reading how that would add nice weight to the model, did I read they are solderable too?
They retail about $45au a set here. So worthwhile for that special project.
Nice review. [smile]

(great shots too, new tablet doing the job)

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Cheers, Simon.

On the bench:
Tamiya 1:32 F-4J Phantom "Marines"
Tamiya 1:32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XVIe

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #5 
Cheers Simon.

I like doing reviews to let other modellers know about a product.

Yes, I agree they can be soldered. I have a small gas filled soldering iron ( looks more like a cigarette lighter), I might give that a try. I would have to knock-up a jig to hold the track steady and upright. I've worked out that each track requires 100 links, so there is no room for a mistake. Think it would have been a good idea to have a couple spare, but the casting is so good I can't see how you can make a mistake.

I had to pay quite a bit of postage for my delivery, which is why I couldn't give a general price. As you have a supplier in your own Country the postage should be cheaper. If memory serves me correctly I paid £26 for the tracks, but there was an addition of £12 postage (a killer) that's probably about 70 Aus $. Damn those cursed p & p's!
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Jamone2

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Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks for posting Nigel. I will try an armoured vehicle soon. Maybe the Sherman M4.

Thomas


On the Bench: Hobby Boss F-14 B 1/48
                      Hobby Boss F-105 1/48

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Revell 1/48 Boeing Stearman on hold

Hobby Boss F-84f (Honoring my Dad) on hold


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks Thomas, I might try a large scale Sherman myself one of these days. Last one I built was an old Airfix 1/72.

Can't get a model of the E 8, which Bob is doing, since they released the film Fury.

I'm giving my Chieftain the full works and using PE, with resin accessories and some alterations to the body work., a fully detailed drivers interior, some netting and canvas attachment. I'm also going to try some live resin for the mounted turret gun, and figures from Mini Art.(might do a review on the Live Resin)
This build is for me, I'm going to ensure that everything is perfectly done , right down to the tea in the cups and maybe smoke from the drivers pipe.

Good luck with your build, you will find loads of friends in this forum that will help if ever you get stuck on something, and share a joke or two [wink] .
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Jasta11

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Reply with quote  #8 
Nice one Nigel ... if you decide to use the burnishing fluid, you'll be even more pleased !  Fiddly and nerf wrecking stuff ain't it [biggrin] ?


Hugh

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SimonD

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Reply with quote  #9 
Yeah Nigel I hear ya re P&P, although my store does free P&P over $150 dollars so too easy, a few paints, coupla kits, I'm there. [wink]
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Cheers, Simon.

On the bench:
Tamiya 1:32 F-4J Phantom "Marines"
Tamiya 1:32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XVIe

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #10 
I agree with you there Hugh. Knowing the state of my medicated mind I will probably forget I have them soaking and they will completely turn to liquid.
I've seen some great results with the AK burnish, but I think I will stick with a brush and powders for this model.

Cheers
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonD
Yeah Nigel I hear ya re P&P, although my store does free P&P over $150 dollars so too easy, a few paints, coupla kits, I'm there. [wink]


Just shows how companies can get more money out of you, to get free p&p spend over $150! I suppose it works well if you intended to get all that you wanted to buy.
I used to use Hannants, you've probably heard Bob going on amount the cost of a model and the standard price that they sell it for. For me, being in their eyes as an International Country the minimum spend I have to do is £20, that's excluding p&p. So if I just want a buy, say, a set of Tank Riders for £9.95 I have to find something to make upto and over £20, then they put on the p&p.

Not sure how much you know about Northern Ireland and Ireland. I'm not going to make any comment that's political or religious, this is the wrong place to talk about that, but I will mention the geography.
Hannants can deliver goods of any value to Northern Ireland, as they are considered part of Britain, yet 60 miles down the road Dublin is considered as International. Now that's crazy.

I used to use eBay, not anymore. There's an example why...I wanted to buy a 1oz tub of brush cleaning soap by Masters. On ebay the cost was £5 (about right), the postage to Ireland would have cost me an extra £28. When I asked why so much the supplier in England said it was because they have to use the signed for Courier service. When I changed the address location to Belfast p&p dropped to £2.50 letter post. Now that's a rip off because the English Royal mail cannot deliver a sign for package to a foreign country.

I ended up buying straight from the buyer, The Pencil Co. , USA. I got double the size cleaner for the same price and their p&p was just a couple of quid.

Amazing. I now tend to go straight to the manufacturer or I get my Hobby Shop to order somethings in for me that they add to their order.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #12 
Just counted the number of links I the bags and you do get 7 extra links per bag.
So if you want to add a spare section of track to the body of the tank you can.
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SimonD

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Reply with quote  #13 
Yes I remember the letter bombs back in the 70's etc. I assume they have restrictions through the Royal Mail service because of those types of events? My Grandfather was born in Dublin btw. So I know a little because of our Irish heritage.

It's a bit like my episode with Tamiya extra thin, listed at 9 dollars something a bottle at BNA (plus handling if it applies), got three bottles for the same price from Lucky models in Hong Kong shipped free. No-brainer in the end.

Putting another order in with BNA next week probably, another big one, and I'll be just about set up, although a new airbrush is forcing it's way up the priority list. lol We'll see. (sorry for the digression, I just came from the "what got delivered today" thread, thought we were still on it. lol It's early, need more coffee!) [wink]

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Cheers, Simon.

On the bench:
Tamiya 1:32 F-4J Phantom "Marines"
Tamiya 1:32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XVIe

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #14 
Managed to do one set of tracks, only needed 97 links.
Here it is on my old model compared to the rubber tracks supplied with kit.




That is exactly how the tracks settle between the running wheels.

Quite a difference and the weight is great. [thumb]
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #15 
Those tracks look amazing, the sag is totally realistic, I think it's definitely worth the extra cost and effort as the difference between the metal and rubber tracks is staggering

Pete
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