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The Flying Fox

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Reply with quote  #1 
Has anybody got advise or recommendation on which is the best glue to use for PE parts. As I am not a great fan of "super glue" as I find it grabs to quick to allow me make sure that I have the part in the right position.

Terry

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Gnarkill1984

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Reply with quote  #2 
I use superglue however white glue works too
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #3 
I have also seen Future or similar product used for PE parts if they are small or tiny. Recently Bob used the epoxy resin glue that is activated by UV light. I will try that asap.
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
I have also seen Future or similar product used for PE parts if they are small or tiny. Recently Bob used the epoxy resin glue that is activated by UV light. I will try that asap.

http://www.target.com/p/as-seen-on-tv-lazer-bond/-/A-50562057?sid=795S&ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=PLA_Kitchen+Shopping_Local&adgroup=SC_Kitchen&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=m&location=1026088&gclid=CJ-x4PXS7tICFdQ6gQodzWIGUw&gclsrc=aw.ds

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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JohnT737

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Reply with quote  #5 
This stuff really works well guys. Its known as Bondic witch you can find on amazon or I found some stuff called 5 second fix at Home Depot on sale for $5. Wish I would have bought 5 or 6 of them instead of 2. Hadn't thought of using it on PE parts, but what the hell. It's great to use on a big seam line because you can work it into a seam with a toothpick. Harden it and then sand. The best way is to layer it with thin layers. If you still have a seam line then repeat the process. Since you don't have to wait for it to cure you can put down several layers in a few minutes.
It's also great for things around the house. We had a few blinds that started breaking the cords. When I took it apart I found that the cords had dug a trench in the plastic guide housing from repeated use over time. Thats what was causing the cords to fray and break. I used the Bondic to fill in the trenches a small layer at a time. A little sanding and now the blinds work like brand new.
If you look up Bondic on the web, they have a bunch of videos that show how to use their product and several uses.
Hope this helps guys. Enjoy
John


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #6 
Great info--thanks for sharing!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Laurie

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Flying Fox
Has anybody got advise or recommendation on which is the best glue to use for PE parts. As I am not a great fan of "super glue" as I find it grabs to quick to allow me make sure that I have the part in the right position.

Terry


All the following items I have given at the end the web address of each.

Superglue is I have found best for PE Terry. All the others I have found reluctant to stay married to plastic or PE.

The best way is to get the PE into position, in most cases, before reaching for the "glue".

I use various ways. The pencil which is white with a wax centre. All in Chinese so can not help. This can be used for small pieces. Pick it up with the wax end and place in position and hold it there.

The other is Sticky Micro. Small sticks with sticky ends. They come in two types. Strong and mild hold.
Again pick up and hold wait until PE has cured before removing.

CA. Zap CA Thin or Rocket Hot. I decant a small amount into a Tattoo cup. Using a Glue looper dip into the CE just enough to fill the loop. Touch with the edge of the Looper the edge of the PE this will then wick the CA under the PE. Repeat on the other side of the PE.

The CAs above are very thin and a small amount on the plastic will not show through a paint film. Providing they are the thin type. But any excess mop with a cotton bud. The CA will cure in approx 10 secs or less. Best to sand the rear of the CA as it gives a better chance of sucess.

For real success. I prime the rear of the PE with Cyberbond or a CA accelerator. The Cyberbond is very convenient as it has a fibre tip to apply. This will send the CA into cure almost immediately and give a very secure bond.

Apologies for being late with this I missed it.

Laurie

Cyberbond. Mine is 6 years old and still going. http://www.cyberbondukonline.co.uk/ourshop/prod_1480198-Cyberbond-Conditioner-Pen-ActivatorPrimer-combination.html

Sticky Micro. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flex-i-File-Sticky-Micro-Smart-Original/dp/B00DAQWZKE

Wax Pencil. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magical-Pencils-Picking-Transferring-Embellishments/dp/B005NYYIEW

Rocket Hot. https://www.amazon.co.uk/highly-penetrating-superglue-cyanoacrylate-adhesive/dp/B00TKH5QXK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492198013&sr=8-3&keywords=rocket+hot

ZAP CA Thin https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Toys-Games/Gluelines-Zap-Ca-Thin-1oz-bottle-PT08/B004O7EXLW/ref=sr_1_2?s=kids&ie=UTF8&qid=1492198069&sr=1-2&keywords=zap+ca+thin

Tattoo Cups. https://www.amazon.co.uk/DCTattoo-Premium-Tattoo-Cups-Caps/dp/B009OBXRGK/ref=sr_1_2_m?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1492198332&sr=1-2&keywords=tattoo+cup

Glue Loopers. Expensive but better than anything else by a long way. http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/the-glue-looper-v3-for-thick-glue-24011-p.asp
To clean use a lighter place looper on jets. On jets as you will not get sooted up. In the actual flame it will soot up the looper.

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #8 
That is a host of great info Laurie! thanks for taking the time to run all that down. wow!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Laurie

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedUSA
That is a host of great info Laurie! thanks for taking the time to run all that down. wow!


Thanks Ted. Before becoming a servant to the Architectural Profession I near on chose life as a handicraft teacher. And so I enjoy imparting knowledge, that I may have, very much.

Handicraft teacher. Enough with 4 kids of our own. Heck who needs torture [nono]

Laurie

Hope things are going well for you Ted !

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The Flying Fox

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Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Laurie


All the following items I have given at the end the web address of each.

Superglue is I have found best for PE Terry. All the others I have found reluctant to stay married to plastic or PE.

The best way is to get the PE into position, in most cases, before reaching for the "glue".

I use various ways. The pencil which is white with a wax centre. All in Chinese so can not help. This can be used for small pieces. Pick it up with the wax end and place in position and hold it there.

The other is Sticky Micro. Small sticks with sticky ends. They come in two types. Strong and mild hold.
Again pick up and hold wait until PE has cured before removing.

CA. Zap CA Thin or Rocket Hot. I decant a small amount into a Tattoo cup. Using a Glue looper dip into the CE just enough to fill the loop. Touch with the edge of the Looper the edge of the PE this will then wick the CA under the PE. Repeat on the other side of the PE.

The CAs above are very thin and a small amount on the plastic will not show through a paint film. Providing they are the thin type. But any excess mop with a cotton bud. The CA will cure in approx 10 secs or less. Best to sand the rear of the CA as it gives a better chance of sucess.

For real success. I prime the rear of the PE with Cyberbond or a CA accelerator. The Cyberbond is very convenient as it has a fibre tip to apply. This will send the CA into cure almost immediately and give a very secure bond.

Apologies for being late with this I missed it.

Laurie

Cyberbond. Mine is 6 years old and still going. http://www.cyberbondukonline.co.uk/ourshop/prod_1480198-Cyberbond-Conditioner-Pen-ActivatorPrimer-combination.html

Sticky Micro. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flex-i-File-Sticky-Micro-Smart-Original/dp/B00DAQWZKE

Wax Pencil. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magical-Pencils-Picking-Transferring-Embellishments/dp/B005NYYIEW

Rocket Hot. https://www.amazon.co.uk/highly-penetrating-superglue-cyanoacrylate-adhesive/dp/B00TKH5QXK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492198013&sr=8-3&keywords=rocket+hot

ZAP CA Thin https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Toys-Games/Gluelines-Zap-Ca-Thin-1oz-bottle-PT08/B004O7EXLW/ref=sr_1_2?s=kids&ie=UTF8&qid=1492198069&sr=1-2&keywords=zap+ca+thin

Tattoo Cups. https://www.amazon.co.uk/DCTattoo-Premium-Tattoo-Cups-Caps/dp/B009OBXRGK/ref=sr_1_2_m?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1492198332&sr=1-2&keywords=tattoo+cup

Glue Loopers. Expensive but better than anything else by a long way. http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/the-glue-looper-v3-for-thick-glue-24011-p.asp
To clean use a lighter place looper on jets. On jets as you will not get sooted up. In the actual flame it will soot up the looper.


There is some very useful information there Laurie, as it was 1am when I had a look last night. But now I have had time to go through the list of Items.

Brilliant selection of use glues. Thank You.

Terry.

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