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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #46 
WOW--Nice work! the pictures are very good also. I almost feel like I am "inside" the cockpit of that model.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #47 
Thank you so much Ted. I was a bit worry how the engines would came out after I decide to add those styrene strips. Don't know if it made a significant difference but I'm quite happy with the weathering.
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #48 
The propellers where quite tricky to paint... I had to hold them firmly to avoid them starting to spin when applying paint with the airbrush. 😅😂🤣
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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ddoc666

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Reply with quote  #49 
Just stunning!

Interior looks amazing. Great work so far!

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Daniel
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #50 
Hi guys... did a bit filling and sanding today. Finally gave a layer of primer on the aircraft. 

Have a few questions for you ... I had a can of Tamiya Primer that I purchased at the time I had no airbrush but never used it. So I decided to give it a try. Very easy to use but a bit messy!!! I have to admit I gave it a go and sprayed a serious layer... [nono][nono][nono] Think I have lost all my panel lines an rivets [rofl][rofl][rofl]. But I must say I'm quiet happy with the result. Do some of you have an opinion on this stuff. Also I would like to know how much time I have to wait to let it completely cure before painting or sanding ?

P1030984.jpg  P1040008.jpg 
Also I would like to share my experience with my knew cement I used since the last two days...  P1040012.jpg 
I saw Bob using it and some others modellers in the UK. Didn't know it was available here in Canada, but when I went to the local store to buy a knew bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin cement (the one I spilled on the floor twoo weeks ago [sneaky][sneaky][sneaky]) it was back ordered. Couldn't wait so started looking for an alternative and found this one. It's more than twice the price compared to the Tamiya cement but decided to try it. 

Well I have to say I'm so happy with this cement. There is almost no smell when using it and it is less agressive than the Tamiya cement. It is very thin also and come with a extra thin brush. The only back side is it takes a bit longer to hold firmly pieces together, but I find it leaves almost no traces around the welding aera. Very good so far. 

I also purchased the Lemonene version of the Tamiya Extra Thin cement (no odour) and the the Micro Weld cement but I didn't use them at this moment. I will share my further experiences in a next post. So this was a kind of a little review for wath it is worth. Hope it can be helpfull for some of you. Thank you. 





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Alain [crazy]
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #51 
I’ve used a few tamiya rattle can products and some designed for model cars. I was impressed with all of them. Yeah, any wide spray product is going to be more messy after you have used an AB. Curing time? Anything on the can? I don’t have any advice for that. Nice review of the cements. Thanks. I do know that dedicated rattle can guys (mostly car modelers) store the cans upside down. Put the can in warm water before the spray, and shaking the can forever to get a thorough mix. That’s all I got.
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #52 
Good advices Ted... thank you so much.
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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Kit'n'Kaboodle

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Reply with quote  #53 
Can't help much on either point.  I've only ever used rattle-cans on real cars, not models, and I've never even heard of that cement, but from what you say it looks like a good product.
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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #54 
Never used spray cans. Result is looking great on the pictures.
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Fabian
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #55 
In fact the good thing about it is it dries almost instantly and the adherence is very good. But the main down side us that the finish is rough. Didn't notice it until I put a first layer of white paint... it was absolutely catastrophic... orange peel. First thought I made a mistake on the paint dilution... but in fact it was the primer. I had to make a huge sanding job on all the aircraft... and lost even more details. First and LAST time I use this for my models.
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #56 
Hi Guys,

Worked hard today... and unfortunately I have no pictures to show you. Had huge problems when applying the semi-gloss clear coat.... don't know why but I messed up the all paint work I did before. It was so granulous on the surface at some places, especialy at the junction of the wings with the fuselage. I sanded it all down, rectified the paint job where the paint was gone,  and try to apply a gloss clear coat instead, but it came out even worse. Tryed to sand it again, but the gloss clear coat hardened like stone !!! I finally decided to strip all the paint down ... Used some thinner but it worked not good. Then I remembered some modellers use Windex to thin their paint (or something like that... but for sure Windex and paint don't like each other). So I used a towel with Windex and thinner and oh my god the paint didn't resist a long time. But when doing that the wings broke down and some clear parts fell off into the model. It will be almost impossible to recover them. So I tried something... build up little windows with Crisal Clear. It's drying now. So very busy WE and the kit almost take the direction to the recycle bin. But I have to admit I learned a lot with all these experiences. Not sure what the final result will look like. Start to work tomorrow for one week so you will have to wait next week for further episodes.

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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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ddoc666

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Reply with quote  #57 
Oh no, sorry to hear about all problems. But you sure have the right mindset, it's solving the problems that arise that help us develop our skills. Hope you will find a way to recover and keep please the model away from the bin!

Regarding the rough surface in the junction between wing/fuselage it's probably caused by spraying into the junction which creates a vortex that dries the paint/varnish before it lands on the surface. Try to spray at a different angle not directly into the junction. Other solutions may be to lower the airpressure or to add retarder.

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Daniel
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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #58 
Great tips!
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Fabian
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alainvandenbosch

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Reply with quote  #59 
Exactly !!! When applying the clear coat, there was a such a mist all around ... I think reducing the pressure is certainly one of the keys. Also will try to add a retarder. In the future I'll try to make some tests to learn having a better control with these transparent coats. What kind of needle is better to spray these coats, maybe it's better to use a 0,5 needle instead a 0,2 or 0,3 needle like I did. The medium would be even more wet when hitting the surface. So if you have some tips, I accept all of them. Thank you.
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Alain [crazy]
Les Éboulements, QC, CANADA
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Cellarrat

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Reply with quote  #60 
As you know, I had vortex problems with my GT3 build, since stripped to restart paint. The angular junctions where I had problems were so small I never even considered problems...........but Zero laquers are new to me.

When spraying planes, where wing and fuselage meet you need to think of the flow of air fron your AB. spaying from wing at fuselage the air gets trapped with no clear exit path, causing a swirl effect in it. Paint gets caught in this swirl and dries before reaching the surface = horrble granuals. so its best to spary along these points from  front to back of your plane angeling AB so air flow is unobstructed.

As for needle size............hm I'd look more into paint mix and pressure. I usually use Gauzy gloss neat (Tamiya and Vallejo paints 50:50 with thinners) at 15-18 psi, so it sounds right when spraying (no splutter sounds and paint goes down nice). Its impossible to give exact mix and pressure........... temperature, humidity and air pressure cause variables.

I use both a 0.2 and 0.4 through Harder and stienbecks infinity and evolution and I find both do great job, use bigger needle size for larger areas.

Hope that helps mate

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Keith,

Stockport,
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