TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383116600
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#2
Removed the parts from the sprues for the cockpit and step two , which involves joining the four [4] pieces that make up the primary fuselage [worst feature of the kit.in addition, the nose cone and another part of the lower front fuselage is a separate piece as well--PUZZLE!] . Since I have to prepare the RESIN seat in order to do the cockpit I went ahead and worked on the fuselage halves first. A review I read recommended joining the two upper fuselage parts together, then the two lower parts, then assembling the fuselage as you would a "standard" fuselage. The instructions show the opposite as in: Join the front fuselage top/bottom halves + join the two back top/bottom fuselage halves, THEN connect them . The review pointed out that it is easier to deal with a top/bottom misfit rather than a misfit all the way around the circumference of the forward part of the fuselage. I agreed once I began dry fitting the 4 pieces to each other.With the halves supported with a roll of TAC and taped down, I held the fuselage and applied Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Looked great in the middle, large gap on the outboard areas .Using a technique Bob just covered in the Challenger Tank step by step build --styrene strips fill the gap with Tamiya ETC applied. Will leave this in place till tomorrow.
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383160655
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#3
Next I joined the bottom fuselage parts--front and back.After sanding the back edge of the nose landing gear well very carefully, there was no dry fit gap or step in the fuselage parts. So........got everything locked in place with TAC, a dowel, and tape--then aligned the joint and applied Tamiya Extra Thin Cement carefully. Multiple dry fittings, sanding, shaping really WORKS!!NOW I have a more "standard" arrangement for assembling the fuselage parts. Here is the review/build link that I have referred to: http://vodnik.republika.pl/pages/mig29/mig29.htm#cockpit Kept looking at two kit options for the vents on the anterior upper fuselage--open or closed. AM PE is great but....not going to order. I decided to use the "open" kit pieces.After I glued one in place i really started looking at the possibility of actually "opening" the vent spaces. SO I have started the tedious process on the vent piece NOT glued in already [taped in place in picture]. Its not that bad really. Hand drill, small thickness p cutter, razor knife, sanding stick.I will open the vent spaces on the right fuselage side when the cement is solid. this image also shows that I simply trimmed my sheet styrene "filler" down close to the fuselage. I will final shape/sand when the whole fuselage is together so I can do all of it at once. should be more continuous since part of the gap was in the curved edge of the fuselage side. I wanted to see if I could modify the kit HUD device to be more realistic [since I am not using a AM PE kit for the cockpit]. The kit HUD is seriously lacking but is so visible I really wanted to modify that detail. Off to the internet to get some real pics of the Mig-29 HUD. I believe that I can work from this image to improve the kit HUD. Drilled/filed the original bottom HUD lens out and backed the opening with a piece of sheet styrene, thinned the upper lens supports, then ground the upper lens [clear kit part] way down. I could have used a piece of clear acetate but did not have any on hand. After the "dash" is painted flat black, I will color the lower lens opening [the styrene] and then cover it with Micro Krystal Klear. 0407 here across the pond and its time for bed. Got to get up at 0700. Assembled the AM Resin Soviet Ejection seat for the Mig-29A Fulcrum. Hobbyists that build similar AM Resin and PE in 1/72 are GODS!! Next Item to undergo modification? the KOLS sensor on the fuselage in front of the canopy.Used saw to remove kit representation of the KOLS system. Opened up a larger whole with a drill bit, round file. Used a piece of clear sprue to re-create the KOLS sensor. This bit will wait till the final step before installation. The "new" KOLS still has to be fitted to the opening and drilled out from behind. Afterwards, it will be painted inside to mimic the image posted above of the real system. Further along in replacing the sensor for the KOLS sys. I drilled out the inside of the "glass dome" and put a drop of silver inside. I also cut a tiny strip of tamiya tape and painted it silver to represent the frame on the real aircraft. UPDATE: The KOLS sensor I made needs a drop of black or metallic grey inside instead of silver. NOTE: Sorry my camera sensor is so dirty [black specks on pictures]! I will clean it soon.
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
eduardo
Wing Commander
Registered:1370770902 Posts: 857
Posted 1383255044
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#4
Already built this plane is not bad at all but the decals are really very bad. I love Mig's
good luck
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383256050
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#5
Quote:
Originally Posted by
eduardo Already built this plane is not bad at all but the decals are really very bad. I love Mig's
good luck
Is your Mig on your webpage? I'd like to see the finished build. I read the review of the kit before I bought it so i knew about the decals. I have ordered some decals to use .
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
eduardo
Wing Commander
Registered:1370770902 Posts: 857
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383258693
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#7
Eduardo--THANKS! what a great set of images revealing the full build and finish and results.I'll be watching that slide show many times.
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TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383281671
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#8
Got some painting done.fuselage around cockpit, resin seat, instrument panel, anti-glare area under front of canopy, etc. I also spent the time to finish "opening" the vents on either side of the fuselage. Order of work: 1. small P Cutter from behind to thin the plastic 2. drilled 6 holes in each slot from the front of the vents 3. razor knife removed the rest of the plastic from between the holes 4. Sanding stick that exactly fit the vent opening finished the processTook me 4+ hours, drilled 60 holes, wet and dry sanding....done !!
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
periklis_sale
Admin
Registered:1362943761 Posts: 182
Posted 1383308854
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#9
excellent work i used the same steps as you top all glued, bottom all glued and then joint top and bottom!
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genessis-models
Marshal of the Royal Air Force
Registered:1328615018 Posts: 3,116
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383324289
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#11
Thanks for the comments. I am enjoying the kit so far. I got two brand new identical kits for $13US. could not pass it up . If all goes well with this build, I may build the 2nd Mig with different scheme and more AM kits.
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
Bubs666
Sergeant
Registered:1382432013 Posts: 209
Posted 1383336207
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#12
Looking good ted
TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383343752
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#13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubs666 Looking good ted
Thanks bubs666. Its been a long time since I built models. Still really low on the learning curve but having a lot of fun.
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TedUSA
Air Commodore
Registered:1375939909 Posts: 9,489
Posted 1383381033
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#14
Spent the majority of work bench time with the cockpit and Ejection seat [I had already AB the seat Flat Black]. I made a thinned Neutral wash with some Burnt Sienna,then followed with a med gray pastel powder.The kicker was just trying to follow a single pair of seat belts in the resin seat. If you look at the unpainted seat, its a tangle of layers of belts.I used Tamiya Deck Tan [XF-55] for the seat belts [looks white in the images due to strong light] I used Tamiya Metallic gray [XF-56] for the buckles. I felt like silver was just too bright? Going to add some tiny styrene plaques to represent labels? note to self, I need to clean my camera sensor, its dirty with black specks.
__________________ Ted pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas: http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/
ErnieS
Admin
Registered:1363045938 Posts: 109
Posted 1383388803
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#15
The seat looks great so far. One thing that could add more depth to it though, especially as it is all black, is to paint the cushions with Model Master Black Chrome Trim. This is a semi-gloss black. The cushions on the real seats are typically black leather, and are a different tone and sheen compared to the metal seat frame. Also on occasion the safety belts and parachute pack belts are different colors as they are replaced in service. Hope this is of use Ernie