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Jason Gaspard

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Reply with quote  #46 
Thanks guys, the tarp is not accurate (per my source they are not used long term, if something needs covered up they go thru the spraylat process) but I thought it needed something extra, if nothing else the tarp would protect the men from the frying pan hot aluminum if they had to sit or kneel…we will see, even if the tarp has not been sitting in the sun the color is too dark and makes it look our of scale somehow…I will revisit.

Today I finally addressed the dog awful fit of the stabilators

[20140812_173639_zpsqarf4qet] 
Drilled holes, glued in wire
[20140812_173715_zpsz2otbxal] 
[20140812_173733_zpsixjrr1ze] 
And used the wire to mark where the holes needed drilled
[20140812_175511_zpsgyqdnfju]  Pre-bent the wire and installed, pretty close for eyeballing it, once the ca is set I will tweak, have applied the wash again also as all the handling wore it clean off.

I have paid no attention to the underside not knowing how much would be seen…decided to detail it up just in case

[20140811_234431_zpsxcdzl1uy] 
Masked and sprayed the bays
[20140812_174518_zps72yiyu7b] 
Starboard air brake modeled open, Port side speed brake left off, as is the starboard aileron and main gear, lead wire in their places to make it look like something used to be there think I will leave off the nose gear also...

[20140812_174541_zpslcbuldfk] 
0.5mm lead wire painted with Vallejo dark rubber for cut hydraulic lines and wires.
[20140812_175416_zpscj8llexx] 
It is very hard to photograph the view underneath, the best I could get…gives you some idea of what I wanted it to look like…dangling hoses and wires all over the place. Thankfully, being a diorama, I can force perspective…nobody will be looking "up the skirt" as it were at the empty fuselage...

The plane is almost done, now I just need be be careful not to break anything off the belly, wish me luck!

-Jason







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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #47 
looking really excellent. very nice weathering on the bottom. perfect match.
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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quinaultkings

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Reply with quote  #48 
.....good luck!

Looks great.

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RossiM1

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Reply with quote  #49 
Loving the attention to detail Jason great idea with the lead wire representing the cut lines and cables .
Gary

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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #50 
The underside weathering looks amazing, how did you achieve that look Jason ?

Pete
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Jason Gaspard

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Reply with quote  #51 
Thanks! This was my first time working with lead wire, I loved it...

Pete,
I mixed Flory Models washes (sand+grime) and applied to bare well cured paint, idea being that it would set into the surface more vs applying over a gloss clear, this way I did not have to worry about wiping too much away since I wanted a really grimy look. This is just about as clean as I could make it with light pressure. This also gives a nice effect since it settles into all the paint irregularities and looks different based on the texture.

The molded in pipes and wires were painted with Mr Metal Iron and buffed shiny before the same wash was applied.

-Jason

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #52 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cajuntaco
Thanks! This was my first time working with lead wire, I loved it...

Pete,
I mixed Flory Models washes (sand+grime) and applied to bare well cured paint, idea being that it would set into the surface more vs applying over a gloss clear, this way I did not have to worry about wiping too much away since I wanted a really grimy look. This is just about as clean as I could make it with light pressure. This also gives a nice effect since it settles into all the paint irregularities and looks different based on the texture.

The molded in pipes and wires were painted with Mr Metal Iron and buffed shiny before the same wash was applied.

-Jason


that's similar to how I weathered most areas of the sturmtiger tank inside and out. I mixed PLEDGE, water, and the color and applied over the bare paint. it does give a great layer of grime exactly as you have described and demonstrated in the photo--very well done Jason!

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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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eduardo

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Reply with quote  #53 
Well, I'm crazy for dioramas so far is amazing, if I had to bet, this was certainly a strong candidate. Stunning work mate[thumb]
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Jason Gaspard

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Reply with quote  #54 
Changing gears this week to the truck, first thing I've built with 4 wheels since the 80's. This Tamiya kit went together VERY nicely, so much so that I did not take any photos of the snip and glue stage…nothing to see there, not one spec of filler needed.

I wanted to display it with the tailgate down and something in the back. Unfortunately the rear is one solid piece, so I had to operate.
[20140821_220058_zps4me8degk] 
After some careful planning, a new #11 blade, a saw and a deep breath this is the result. as you can see this left a gap on each side of the opening, filled from behind with card. I beveled the bottom of the tailgate with a sander so it would lay flat.

Here the chassis has been assembled, primed and painted with Model Masters Acryl Rust then Futured and hit with chipping agent (I use AK Interactive Worn Effects, I get more consistent results than hairspray). This photo shows my solution to manipulating this large piece while spraying, it was too heavy for white-tac so I CA's a piece of scrap sprue onto an unseen area…once done I just sniped it off with my spruecutter.
[20140821_220131_zpsbtsoj3gt] 
I'm not a fan of this color but it's all I have, rust is needed so infrequently on aircraft that I am leery of splashing out for the rust all set, but I just may need to for the next vehicle build, for the little bit I will be chipping on this truck it will be fine.

Here the x-18 is drying, I left the exhaust rust for some contrast
[20140822_000241_zpscf625lwd] 

Letting that dry I turned attention to the body. All interior surfaces were hit with Alclad Aluminum, allowed to dry then sprayed with the Worn Effects.
[20140822_000255_zpsccn1ift1] 

Then sprayed with slightly lightened xf-62. Once that was cured the chipping began. I was mindful to keep this subtle and confined to areas that would see wear. The shininess is the Future I laid down preparing for weathering.

[20140822_171337_zpslwncxx27] 
[20140823_000059_zpsiioonyjt] 
Error confession: I did not prime before the alclad went down. As a result some of the rubbing actually took me down to bare plastic…it's just in a couple of areas and I can blend them in with my wash. I thought I could skip this stage…lesson learned.

The chassis was chipped also
[20140822_233046_zps3hccqwur] 
and the wheels
[20140822_233150_zpsgskrnfpa] 

A closeup shot of the strut, once sprayed with the body color, the spring was hand painted with Mr. Metal Iron and buffed up. I love these buffable metalizers! Mr Metal over the Model Master mainly for the fact that you can brush them on vs spray.

[20140822_233106_zpszjbpukxf] 

The wood side rails are molded very nicely with lots of good woodgrain detail. My challenge was how to pull that out subtly. A few false starts and baths in IPA brought me to this technique:
[20140823_001209_zpso3ayb9zt] 
The pieces were shot with xf-55 then futured. Once that was dried I applied a burnt umber artist's oil and kept removing until I had the effect I wanted. The oil paint had the added benefit of leaving drag marks from the brush which added to the wood effect. The flash distorted the colors here but left is plain Deck Tan, right is after the Burnt Umber has been applied.

Then the body was sprayed, I held off on this for awhile because I could not decide on traditional green/brown/blk camo or desert yellow…finally decided that the green would not only look a little out of place but may throw off the visual balance of the diorama. I did not do any pre or post shading, just xf-59 lightened with Model Air white (5 drops white per 1ml Desert Yellow). I have not installed any of the glass yet, nothing is glued up…I will install the clear pieces then glue up after all weathering and the final matte is sprayed.

Here you can see the wood effect much better, I'm going to use this technique on my next WWII aircraft cockpit floor:
[20140823_015818_zpsfidkmpvl] 
My scratch build palettes fit! confirmation that my scale calculations were correct.
[20140823_015845_zpsa6rjeag0] 
[20140823_015859_zpsjpfquj5x] 
Alclad steel on the hood (sorry, bonnet [smile]) and more Mr Metal Iron here and there. I'm not 100% happy with the front chipping on the chassis, I will work on this...
[20140823_015919_zpsri66ygd2] 

This then had a coat of Future in prep for decaling, maybe tomorrow.

I really enjoyed building this, lots of nice detail and no fit problems. Weathering photos up next. I also need to figure out how to make hinges so I can display the F4's nose opened, that's all that really needs done still on the plane.




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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #55 
The Humvee looks fantastic Jason, the wood effect is outstanding ! the pallets fitted perfectly and look very authentic, this just gets better and better every time you update

Pete
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #56 
Humveetastic! will look great along side the Phantom.
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Jason Gaspard

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Reply with quote  #57 
Thanks, I'm pretty happy with how this turned out...to tell the truth I almost changed my mind about including it...glad I didn't. FYI I think I misspoke earlier, I used XF-60 (Dark Yellow) not Desert Yellow...

I got a lot more done tonight!

Looking at my reference photos and checking with my guy, there are no markings on the maintenance tech's vehicles so I skipped the decals and went straight to the wash. I used the same combo of Flory Model's washes that I used on the Phantom.

Extra time spent on the tires, you all know how shiny and black (not at all like real rubber) the vinyl tires are out of the box. Heavy coats of wash strategically wiped off with a dry cloth and then flatted with matte varnish gave a nice look.

I modeled the passenger door open and the wheels turned to add some interest to it and make it less static looking. I have some additional weathering in mind for the underside (Mr. Bobby's splattered mud technique) but this is pretty much where I will leave it. I actually had removed more wash at first, but one last look at my insider reference photos showed the trucks are absolutely filthy, especially around monsoon time, so I went back and left it dirtier.

[20140824_012134_zpshbqb9hrh]
A good shot of the open tailgate here, I just noticed I did not install any supporting cables, should be a quick fix, will save that for later.
[20140824_012201_zpsnad9axbr] 
[20140824_012054_zps7n5lfwih] 
This view will look much better (hopefully), although it may never be seen...you can also see the amount of lock I put on the steering better here:
[20140824_020255_zpsmpzfup8z] 

All tucked in for the night, hopefully this will protect it until reveal...as long as it doesn't get misplaced!
[20140824_020425_zps4epe1fjd] 

In between coats of wash and matte I worked on the plane a little more. Looking at the Phantom on all 3 trestles was a little too tragic (and boring looking), so I reinstalled the starboard main gear, flattening the wheel by heating over a candle and pressing onto the workbench. Unfortunately this necessitated shortening the trestle on the right side to keep it level. Quick work with a set of clippers and sanding sticks.

You can't see very well on this cell phone photo but it looks very much like a flat tire, hopefully it will show better in the reveal pix.
[20140824_013012_zpscj97ko8k] 
[20140824_012954_zps2gehca8v] 

Regarding the radome, I mocked up several different hinges today...none of which either looked good or worked. Went back to basics and used copper wire. I drilled a hole in the cone corresponding to an existing hole I had already made on the fuselage. I placed a piece of styrene strip behind that hole and drilled into it once it had set up then tweaked it until I was happy. You can see the wire in the pix and it looks quite a lot like the images of real hinges I have been able to find online. Extra interest added to the nose in the form of lead wire and to the fuselage by pulling out the wires I had already installed.

Here you can see the support piece i needed to install, freshly painted. The thin CA I used to attach the styrene ran all over the place inside the nose, you can see some of the mess here...
[b3ede973-6ee6-4f91-8831-276eb5c70763_zpsd57b5e8d] 

I reapplied the wash to cover this which is still wet in these photos the CA accident actually gave a nice corroding effect:

[20140824_013046_zpsiq10k27l] 

In reference photos there seems to be some kind of seal or wire loom running the entire interior circumference of the nose cone, 0.7mm lead wire glued in place then crimped with pliers recreated it pretty closely.

[20140824_013053_zps1up4lq81] 

I am still trying to get a finish I am happy with on the drop tanks, aside from some touchups that is the last task on my checklist for the Phantom...

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed this installment. 

  




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quinaultkings

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Reply with quote  #58 
Excellent Humvee and that wood effect is great, thanks for sharing.

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Cheers Andy

Current Build: 1/48 Revell F14D Tomcat
Current Build: Revell 1/48 ME410 Hornisse
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Jason Gaspard

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Reply with quote  #59 
Finishing touches on the truck tonight. Since these vehicles belong to either the mechanics or the company they work for, they need to be registered in the state. Using the scrap of decal paper I had left and the thinnest card I could find, I hopped into Photoshop and made a set of license plates. This small of an image really was past the capability of my printer, but unless you are this close you don't notice. The decal is lifting a bit but I'm not worried…I had to replace a plate down there once because it delaminated, it's quite common to see peeling at the edges.

If you are interested, the dimensions for a 1/48 US license plate (3x6") is 2.5mm L x 1.25mm H.


[20140824_211543_zpshwgmsegc]
[20140824_211606_zpsqtyaheqk] 
May as well represent, right?? I know…it exceeds the 7 letter limit and front plate use is not compulsory in AZ, but I wanted to cover that unsightly chipping and busy up the front. It added another little detail, and AZ does give you 2 plates...

If you don't know already, AMARG is completely unpaved bare earth (no sand in the AZ Sonoran Desert), and this time of year is Monsoon season, there would be mud everywhere once or twice a week…the ground really doesn't soak up water very quickly after being baked for 6 months.

With that in mind I thought the weathering needed one last layer of realism, out came the pigments and I had fun with the mud…too much fun at first, making a mess is so much fun! Notice I also fixed the massive panel gap where the hood meets the body.

first attempt:
[20140824_220740_zps7qfag76x] 

luckily it wipes right off, round two I exercised a little restraint (and masked the tires)
[20140824_221816_zpskcnozygg] 

[20140824_221826_zpsshu690tp] 
[20140824_222036_zps6odqjf07] 
[20140824_222059_zpsi1kbq4hx] 
yeah, I broke the door off, I knew I would...I will leave it off for now

[20140824_221233_zpspculbkji] 
I practiced underneath first, a bit OTT maybe but unless this gets submitted as a stand-alone IPMS entry I doubt anyone will ever look here. As a diorama prop I am over the moon with this.

I also scratch built the tailgate cables (if you consider snipping and gluing a piece of lead wire scratch building), the attachment points were made by *gently* squishing in my Tamiya PE bending pliers. It's almost like Tamiya had opening the tailgate in mind when they molded the back.
[20140824_222646_zps1jsqzvu6] 

and...no more updates for a couple of days, back to work tomorrow [bawl] Now I can catch up on everyone else's progress!! I hope you UK guys enjoy your Summer Bank Holiday.

Thanks for looking! Hopefully I'm not boring you guys but a lot accomplished this weekend.




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kennymc0

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Reply with quote  #60 
I remember those plates. Had one on my car when I still lived in arizona. You're right about only the rear being required. Back in the 90's they ended the requirement for the front plate, and now they only issue 2 plates when you have a personalized plate like the one you have on your humvee. Was basically a cost savings thing to save money by only issuing one plate instead of 2 for every vehicle. Those plates look as good as you could probably get them with an average home color printer. Would have to start handing over a lot of money to get a printer that would handle fine detail like that any better. The humvee looks great. Looks like it's been driving around the desert the day after a good monsoon rain. Don't think you went OTT on the bottom. If anything it might be a little light. There is only a thin layer of dirt before you get down to clay, so any mud you get tends to stick very well. Wasn't uncommon to see trucks driving around looking like this for a week after a particularly heavy monsoon rain (lived in north phoenix about 45min from lake pleasant which had a lot of off road trails) Though even this is rather clean compared to what I saw a lot of the time. This is probably more what you were trying to recreate. Looks like he just had to drive through a muddy dirt road to get to a job site. Looking forward to your next update.

Kenny

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-Kenny

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