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srp71

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Reply with quote  #31 
Looks great you have the that bone effect down to a tee Brilliant work.


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #32 
Thanks Simon, I used to have a huge Warhammer Undead Army in my youth. Have now build the first part of the body and primed it.



I'm painting this in seperate pieces and constructing it when each part is done.

This is going to be one large model.

I've been thinking about how best to base this model. Looking at some of the photos I've taken so far, I do like the look of the model when it lit from below. The undead spirits that float around the figure will be a very pale errie green/white, so I thought I might use some Green LED lights to glow up from the base to highlight the whole model.

Will have to think a bit more about this, a am begining to like the idea. [idea]


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srp71

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Reply with quote  #33 
That's a beautiful looking molding. Great pose. Looks like he is about to break into a big theatrical song. Nagash, Supreme lord of the Undead the musical. Lol
     Lights as well. do you make up all you own system or are they pre-wired. would love to do something with led's but wouldnt know were to start with the all wiring in of the led and resistors. 
Keep the great work coming.

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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #34 
If you use the 1.5v button cells as a power source you shouldn't need any resistors, but my expertise is mostly based on 12v automotive systems for custom dashboard lighting. Most of those aftermarket LED systems come pre wired and all you have to do is mount them cleverly. But they do come in a range of colors and you can make up your own battery setups for them.

This is very similar to what I use for cars, but the idea is the same. There should be a ton of them in any color on Ebay still.
http://www.autozone.com/lighting/led-lighting/alpena-flexled-light/257275_0_0/

The idea is that you can remove them from the strips and wire them up any way you want. The resistors are already included in the design. That exact set probably won't work, but there are literally thousands of types to choose from and they are not too expensive.

I know this is going to turn out stunning Nigel.  [smile]

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srp71

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Reply with quote  #35 
Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Brindos
If you use the 1.5v button cells as a power source you shouldn't need any resistors, but my expertise is mostly based on 12v automotive systems for custom dashboard lighting. Most of those aftermarket LED systems come pre wired and all you have to do is mount them cleverly. But they do come in a range of colors and you can make up your own battery setups for them.

This is very similar to what I use for cars, but the idea is the same. There should be a ton of them in any color on Ebay still.
http://www.autozone.com/lighting/led-lighting/alpena-flexled-light/257275_0_0/

The idea is that you can remove them from the strips and wire them up any way you want. The resistors are already included in the design. That exact set probably won't work, but there are literally thousands of types to choose from and they are not too expensive.

I know this is going to turn out stunning Nigel.  [smile]

Great tip on lighting many thanks.

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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #36 
Exactly what I am looking for Mike. Just want something pre wired and just needs a battery. I'm looking at one of my Xmas decs from the pound shop.

The model just needs a cloak and it would look like a be-headed Superman coming in to land [wink]

Found out tht my Warlock Purple and Violet paint have dried up solid, looks like I'm going to have to do this the hard way and mix a few Acrylic tubes of paint to get the right colour. Luckily I have loads of blue and red.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #37 
Well I have managed to make a batch of purple/violet paint by experimenting with ratios of blue/reds, and am pleased with the result. It does require two coats to fully saturate the areas with a deep rich colour.

The photo doesn't do this paint justice.



Have also been putting various extras together to paint seperately.

I'm really enjoying this model.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #38 
Just as a slight side line, and waiting for washes to dry, I need to practise some heavy weathering.
I'm using an old Challenger model to try a few tricks. My tanks always look like they have just come off the production line.
I'm doing this as I want to re-make my rather old and battered Chieftain Mk 5.
I love this tank and I want to paint it, in a seperate project, and copy a photograph I came across whilst surfing the net.
This is strange for me to dirty up a model...but I like the look of this attempt.



What a difference.

A few more washes to go, I want heavy amounts of dust on the tank.
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #39 
Just noticed that the paint on the hat is a little uneven. Will level the area with very light sanding, if I'm careful it shouldn't need repainting.

Other than that the head is completed.



Now for the bodywork. As this is a long job I shall post regular updated photos. For the first time ever I intend to use dust weathering on the tattered cloak to contrast with the armour.

Thanks for looking.
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srp71

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Reply with quote  #40 
Cant get over how realistic that bone effect looks. I just know this is going to be epic. 
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #41 
Thanks Simon,

You should give it a try sometime. It's a great way to learn drybrushing.

It has taken me a long time to get my brush just right. Doing excessive projects, like this one, really improves the brush (technical way of saying it ruins it more). Don't think this one has ever been near water [smile]

So far I've not used a detail brush yet. The teeth and rivets have been painted with a cocktail stick The eyes have turned out really well and look a lot more eerie since I painted them fluorescent green.

I am disappointed that the camera has auto balanced the colour, it all looks much different when seen with the naked eye.
The armour is royal blue but the violet looks the same on camera shots, but actually has a lot more red in it in reality. A pity.

Once I have finished the whole model I will try and take some outdoor pics, weather permitting.

Ps. I managed to sort out the uneven paint on the hat. I used the Tamiya compound Black Fine. Must admit I was nervous doing that.
I have left the model to dry overnight now with a good coat of Dust Wash by Humbrol on the black rag cloak.
If it's worked I'll post pics before and after.
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #42 
crammed with detail and great paintwork-- big WOW! thanks for all the images of the work!
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Ted

pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #43 
Thanks Ted,

About to go down stairs and make a cuppa and see the results of the Dust Wash. As a precaution I varnished the area first so if I don't like it I can remove it all quite easily [thumb]
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #44 
Very very nice mate, the violet looks great against the bone and I love the paint effect you have given it, it really does look authentic

I'm liking the dust effects too, did you mix pigment into a wash ? I have tried this technique a couple of times mixing pastels with Humbrol decal soft, You can remove it after its dry if you need to and make it permanent with a matt coat

Pete
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nigel56

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Reply with quote  #45 
I did 2 washes Pete, one straight from the bottle and a seperate mix. I used pastels and wash thinners.
It's certainly going to take a number of thick washes. I'm trying to recreate a photo, and with out giving too much away, this is part of the turret.



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