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Whizzo

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Reply with quote  #1 
Guys:

Just starting the Encore F-102 and this will be my first experience with resin so a quick question...

I have been taking the mould blocks off the resin parts (yes I have been taking the appropriate safety precautions) but when I take the blocks off of the intakes the aft portion of the intake is almost paper thin. Is this normal? I was expecting a bit more substance to support the attachment to the rest of the styrene.

Thoughts?

Fred

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CF-18 Reference On the bench are an Airfix Sea Harrier FRS.1 then an Airfix CT-155 Hawk trainer (Hawk MK 115). All in 1/48.
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #2 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whizzo
Guys:

Just starting the Encore F-102 and this will be my first experience with resin so a quick question...

I have been taking the mould blocks off the resin parts (yes I have been taking the appropriate safety precautions) but when I take the blocks off of the intakes the aft portion of the intake is almost paper thin. Is this normal? I was expecting a bit more substance to support the attachment to the rest of the styrene.

Thoughts?

Fred


Hi Fred, have you got a picture of the parts, so we can have a look ? I have had parts that have been massively thick and paper thin as well. Does anything attach to the rear of the intake or have they been intentionally cast that thin to look in scale ? If I see some pics I might be able to help a bit more

Pete
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Whizzo

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Hope these help...







Thanks in advance for the help!

Fred

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CF-18 Reference On the bench are an Airfix Sea Harrier FRS.1 then an Airfix CT-155 Hawk trainer (Hawk MK 115). All in 1/48.
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #4 
Damn that is thin ! I can see it's translucent on the picture of the right hand fuselage half, I can only offer advice based on what I would do if it were me. I would start by filling and sanding the little chips at the rear of the intakes (superglue mixed with talcum powder is great for this as it sands very easily) superglue the intakes on, and use the same powder/cyno mix for filling them, I'm suggesting this way as it's so easy to sand, I worry that using a harder filler where the intakes are so thin might run the risk of sanding through them, but do a test with the mix on a bit of scrap first, so you get a "feel" for how it sands, it takes a little longer to harden this way too so you will be able to see how long it takes. I use this method quite a bit and I normally give the mix a squirt of activator after I have applied it to speed things up. You might have to do a couple of applications to fill the gap, but I sure it will work out ok if you are gentle with the sanding stick

I hope this helps Fred

Pete

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Whizzo

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Reply with quote  #5 
Pete: Thanks that was great advice! I finally got up the nerve to have a go at this and it worked perfectly!

Thanks again for the sage advice.

Fred

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CF-18 Reference On the bench are an Airfix Sea Harrier FRS.1 then an Airfix CT-155 Hawk trainer (Hawk MK 115). All in 1/48.
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #6 
I was wondering how you where getting on with this Fred, I'm really pleased it worked out well, I know what it's like when you come across a problem and are not sure what the best way to go is, but once you get stuck in its never as bad as you think, I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of this build mate

Pete
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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #7 
YES, thanks Pete! your white Armour is really shining! good to have these tips!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Hauptmann61

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Reply with quote  #8 
A quick question I have on the resin blocks is what you guys recommend for removal (Apologies in advance for newbie question). Now I have worked with resin before but not precisely the same as what we get in the aftermarket kits such as the parts you get for aircraft. Ejection seats, cockpit details, wheels and such like. My experience in resin has specifically been on resin armour kits from Warlord Games in their Bolt Action range again specifically removing the excess resin blocks from the tank track sections. I used my dremel tool cutter and sanding tool to remove and clean up. Naturally I did this outside with a a dust mask. In my tool kit range I have a razor saw, the type used for model railroaders, obviously No11 Hobby Knives and sandpaper blocks in various grades as well as my dremel tool. Would appreciate to hear what you guys recommend and especially if Im going completely wrong using a dremel.

Mike

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M.Brindos

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Reply with quote  #9 
I use my Dremel without issue. I also use a set of micro files for , well, everything. The files are excellent if you need square corners or absolutely flat surfaces. I cut most of the resin block off then clean by hand with the files.

Nothing wrong at all with your approach sir.  [smile]
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Hauptmann61

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Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks for that, much appreciated. I also have the those files you mention in my toolkit, and yes they are brilliant for finishing. Resin detail kits here I come.
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