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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #16 
Hi Paul, thanks for the ideas, I'll try to do up a sketch of what I was thinking for my diorama.  It will definitely consist of more water and less land.

As for figures, that might be biting off a little too much for me.  The land and water involved in the diorama will be enough of a challenge and I have found it hard to find any post apocalyptic models (vehicles or figures) at all of the hobby shops around here.  Maybe down the road when I've had a chance to try figure painting, I'll add some to the diorama.

Thanks,

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Tim
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Choppa Nutta

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Reply with quote  #17 
Nice thing about figures is that most of the time they can be added afterwards [smile]

Saw this and thought of you,
figured it might help cover the basics [smile]
Sea dioramas is also something I haven't done (yet) either so I am particularly interested to see how this all pans out [biggrin]


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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #18 
Dave makes some good video about so many subjects.I'll be using the video re: making your own rust that you posted Paul. THANKS!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #19 
Paul, thanks for that video it is very helpful.  I think for my first attempt at modelling water I'm going to stick with calm water.

As for an update,

Here it is all stuck together,
DSC_0312 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

and the cockpit, with seatbelts installed
DSC_0313 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

here are some pics with the skiis attached with blue tac for positioning,
DSC_0317 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0318 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

and this is a pic of the armament selection that I'm planning to add,
DSC_0319 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

The weapon in the middle of the picture above is my version of a torpedo, below is how it looks with fins added,
DSC_0312_1504467933145 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

and this last pic shows the skiis with gas cans added (I think I might add a few more things to the skiis to make them more interesting) and 2 containers that I plan to use somewhere in the diorama.
DSC_0316 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

That's it for now,

Thanks.

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Tim
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Brundledonk

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Reply with quote  #20 
Coming together nicely and I like those skis too. You could add some bracing wire to the struts if you want some more detail in that area.

Plenty of weaponry going into the mix as well

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TedUSA

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Reply with quote  #21 
Looking really good! The ski's, the weapons, its all great!
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pinterest pg. of scale models/dioramas:
http://www.pinterest.com/intrstinpintrst/awesome-scale-models/


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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #22 
Good progress and it's looking great already.
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Fabian
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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #23 
Hi Guys,

  Not a big update, I got primer on most of the parts and will start painting soon.  I do however have a question, how do you create the effect of bent/dented metal on plastic?  I want to add dents to the road guards that I'm using as the skiis but can't think of a way of doing it and make it look realistic, any tips are appreciated.

Thanks

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Tim
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Reply with quote  #24 
I've used a knife heated up on the stove and pressed it on and off quickly onto the plastic
with care you can make it look like bent metal.

soldering iron would be useful too.

Boiling the parts in question is another way of manipulating the plastic,
you could poor boiling water on the bit you want to deform,
 a thin constant stream for a dozen seconds should get it quite mobile [smile]

Heatgun is another way use a sheet of wood with a hole in it for a heat mask to effect the bit you want etc.


I think I'd prefer to do it to the parts separately though and then assemble afterwards

plastic and metal have some similar properties when it comes to deforming but you just need to heat the plastic up enough to make it ductile, so to speak.


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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #25 
Ok, Thanks Paul.

  I tried a soldering iron last night as well as the tip of a heated glue gun.  I found both just melted the plastic instead of deforming it.  My next thought was to try gently heating with a heat gun and bending/forming the plastic with non heated metal tool.

I'll keep experimenting and let you know how it goes.

Thanks

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Tim
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Reply with quote  #26 
you need to get the plastic warm first and be quick with the heat source

I reckon boiling water would be easier as you get the plastic soft without melting it so easily [smile]

good luck ! [smile]

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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #27 
So I did a little more testing last night with using a heat gun to form the dents and it looks much more realistic but the process is very tricky and you have to work fast and pay attention or it can go bad quickly.  I took a picture of the results, the second picture shows the differences of the 2 methods.  Red boxes are done with the soldering iron and blue boxes with the heat gun.

DSC_0318_1505302442473 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0318_1505302442473-boxed by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

In my opinion, the heat gun areas look much better.

My technique when using the heat gun was to quickly pass the plastic over the heat source 1-3 times until it started to soften, then I quickly laid it down on a flat surface and tried my best to manipulate the finished look.  Overall I like it, however, I'm worried that it can easily be overdone an ruin the plastic.  I may be very conservative with the amount of dents that I add to the actual model parts.

As you suggested Paul, it may be worth while trying boiling water as the heat source.

Thanks 

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Tim
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vdbo76

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Reply with quote  #28 
Looking great, like the heat gun effect. But please take care, safety first :-)
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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #29 
I got the skiis all dented up last night and I decided to stop after doing small areas on each ski as to not over do it.  The first 2 pics are one ski and the second 2 pics are the other ski.

DSC_0317_1505350980547 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0319_1505350980805 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

DSC_0320 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0321 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

And after I was happy with those results, I started with some colour.  The V1 calls for a 3 colour scheme, Olive Drab on the wings, Dark Green on the upper fuselage and Light Blue on the lower fuselage.  Last night I was able to get the olive drab on the wings as well as a few other parts that needed the same colour.

DSC_0317_1505354412416 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0319_1505354412227 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

That's it for now, in case you're wondering, that is white Stynylrez that I used for the primer.

Thanks,

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Tim
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Timbo

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Reply with quote  #30 
This build seems to be "a little at a time" so for this update, the V-1 is painted.  From the top it looks like all one colour but the wings are olive drab and the body is dark green, the bottom is a blue grey.

DSC_0317_1505911823343 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr
DSC_0318_1505911822750 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

I also managed to paint the skiis, first was a base coat of black then a top coat of flat aluminum.  And here they are looking nice and shiny......

DSC_0319_1505911823210 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr

Then I went to work adding rust, for this I used paint and a sponge and the clolour I used..... oddly enough it's called rust.

DSC_0322 by Tim Ashton, on Flickr


Next job is to clear coat both then add some sort of a chipping medium and then a top coat of another colour.  I've never attempted the chipping effect and would appreciate any tips you guys might have.

Thanks,

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Tim
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